Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kyle Bishop
Page Views: 562 total · 67/month
Shared By: Kyle Bishop on Sep 15, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

P1: (5.10b) Climb a tricky face until the large horizontal fracture that is part of the negativity cave. Belay from an anchor on the ledge.

P2: (5.10b) move right of the anchor through a roof. The bolts straight up from the anchor are for Low Gravity. After the roof, a crazy bowling-pin sized rock in a crack to your left marks the way forward. This thing wouldn't budge after slamming and wrenching it with a hammer so it should be pretty safe. Continue up the face to a crux at parallel-ish cracks. Finally, make your way up to Star Ledge, where mussies await.

Both pitches can be combined into one mega ~42m pitch that still feels like 10b+.

Be sure to lower to the first anchor! Even an 80m only gets you to the first ledge if rapping all the way from the top.

Location

A high first bolt marks the start, about 12m right of Little Buddy on the Negativity Slabs.

Protection

P1: 6 bolts to an anchor with quick links.
P2: 7 bolts to an anchor with mussies.

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