Type: Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches
FA: Kyle Bishop, Michael Bonvino
Page Views: 1,796 total · 72/month
Shared By: Kyle Bishop on Nov 9, 2018
Admins: Kyle Bishop, Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Climbs to the sides of a prominent crack on the right side of The Moon, including some tricky vertical/slab climbing on the first pitch, and a roof at the start of the second.

Makes for an awesome warmup or good first forray into multi-pitch climbing as the belay stations are comfy and it's easy to hear your partner.

P1 (5.9): Climb a short bulge to a ledge, conquer some easy slab, then climb the tricky face to the anchors. The bolts on the face are juuuuust close enough to the crack that you can climb said crack instead. The crack is significantly easier at about 5.5.

P2 (5.8/5.9): Move to the left of the anchor, then climb straight up through a roof. Besides conquering the roof, you should always be left of the crack. There are one or two spots where your feet get back to the crack, but the pitch is meant as a face climb, and doesn't stray more than a few feet from the bolt line.

P3 (5.6): Throwaway pitch to get you to the top. From Star Ledge, head up the right side until on the top of the benches. A top-roping anchor with just bolts is straight back while a lowering-off anchor with mussies is climber's left of the small pine-tree.

Location

Right-most climb at the moon.

Protection

Pitch 1: 8 draws + something for the anchors. Only quick-links on the anchors
Pitch 2: 9 draws(?) to mussies. Will report back once I can take a second look.
Pitch 3: 3 bolts to mussies left of the pine tree (this pitch is more of a throwaway just to get you to the very top)

A 70m from the top of p2 will require down-climbing while an 80m makes it with some stretch. Either way, WATCH THE END!

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