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Routes in Acker Rock
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Black Magic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eagle's Dare S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Kill Your Scene T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Living to See Another Day S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lunch Route S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Maltese Falcon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Orc Bypass T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Peregrine Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poodle Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Saddle Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sinister Footwear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strung-Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Studio Tan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sunrise Tower S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sunset Tower S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weenie with a Tan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wizard Tower S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.05188, -122.64633 |
| FA: | Greg Orton and Harold Hall, 1997. |
| Page Views: | 1,121 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Oct 15, 2018 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure - Jan 1st - July 31st
Details
See the Umpqua National Forest website: fs.usda.gov/r06/umpqua/recr…
Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.
Description
Maltese Falcon is outside the nesting Peregrine response area. Climbing this route will not affect nesting Peregrine.
This was our first route up Acker and still a memorable favorite for me (go).
Pitch 1: follow the seam straight up, 5.9.
Pitch 2: (5.9) continues straight up ending at rappel chains just shy of the Peregrine Traverse ridge.
Pitch 3: Either continue on Pitch 5 of the Peregrine Traverse or make two 100 ft raps to base of Maltese Falcon (3 raps back to climber's trail). About the middle of P2 is an alternate variation off to the right (5.8) ending at the belay for pitch 6 of the Peregrine Traverse.
Refer to Topo A pp. 46 & description on pp.49 of Western Oregon Rock Climbing, Vol. 2, Umpqua
Location
Follow the climber's access trail past the dry waterfall to the obvious switchback taking you down hill. Instead of following the switchback scramble uphill to the large madrone. looking uphill from the madrone you will see the boltline for Maltese Falcon following the seam to your left.
Protection
bolts, belays have been upgraded with rappel chains and can now be rapped using using two 60m ropes from anchors on the Peregrine Traverse.
On hind-sight, first pitch has features that will take gear if needed.
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.
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