Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: g Orton, h Hall, Jeff Lee. 1997.
Page Views: 1,603 total · 23/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Oct 15, 2018
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure - Jan 1st - July 1st DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

One of my favorite routes on Acker, Black Magic begins on the main S wall above the dry waterfall and below the "white eagle" (refer to topo on pg. 46 of Umpqua Guide).

P1: steep sustained 5.10a friction, full 50m, z-clipping not an issue here. Bolt placements may seem runout to some but steep enough to provide safe air time. First pitch definitely PG or R. Caution!!: belay 1st pitch from base of the climb and not from the dry waterfall top anchors. 

P2: sustained 5.10b friction up to the "white eagle" with a strenuous single crux move over the "wing" headwall. Bolt spacing becomes closer through pitch-2 especially compared to P1. There is a single strenuous move before the next belay. I've gotten feedback that this is probably a 5.10c move, but if you are 5'5" it is more like .11a (would love a second opinion on ratings). There is a bolt protecting this move that can be used to aid through it in a pinch. Together P1 & P2 make for about 300 feet (approx) of very sustained climbing.

As a side note, while on the first ascent on P2 I had two young peregrine land on either side of me to watch while I climbed while their mother patiently cruised back and forth keeping watch. Definitely a magical day.

P3: approximately 125 feet of 5.7-8 climbing to the top of the false summit and register, tying in with Pitch 8 of the Peregrine Traverse.

As yet there are no rap chains on Black Magic so I recommend two ropes and some cheap webbing in case you want to bail.

To descend use rap chains located at the bottom of the "dirty chimney" of Pitch 9 of the Peregrine Traverse and walk back to the base of Black Magic or up to the Acker Rock Lookout. Caution: Pulling you rope after rapping down from the register can be problematic and is not recommended.

Better yet, finish the day on Eagle's Dare.

Location Suggest change

Use one of two approaches.

1. from the Acker Rock Lookout toilet, hike straight down hill between Wizards Tower (left) and the main South Face (right). Black Magic will be the only bolt line you  see as you  come around the South Face. You may also see the belay bolts on top of the Dry Water Fall directly across from Black Magic. Caution!!: there will be several steep slabs to negotiate, or rappel from a tree, before reaching the broad sandy shelf at the base of Black Magic. 

2. from the Climber's access trail leading into the Sun Bowl as you first approach the first main formation (Observation Point) watch for the dry waterfall where you will find a short bolt line (a dirty 60 foot 5.8) to the right of the water fall leading to a broad sandy shelf at the base of "Black Magic".

Protection Suggest change

Fixe 3/8 SS double expansion bolts, belay anchors have not been upgraded with chains.

PG = exposure and leads generally maybe unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.