All Locations > Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Acker Rock

Black Magic

Name: Black Magic
Rating: 4.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in Acker Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Magic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Eagle's Dare S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Kill Your Scene T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Living to See Another Day S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Lunch Route S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Maltese Falcon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Orc Bypass T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Peregrine Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Poodle Bite S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Saddle Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Sinister Footwear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Strung-Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Studio Tan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Sunrise Tower S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Sunset Tower S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Weenie with a Tan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wizard Tower S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA:	g Orton, h Hall, Jeff Lee. 1997.
Page Views:	1,420 total · 23/month
Shared By:	gso Orton on Oct 15, 2018
Admins:	Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure - Jan 1st - July 1st Details

Climbing is prohibited from January 1 until two weeks after young have fledged, usually July 1st.

Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.

For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…

Description

One of my favorite routes on Acker, Black Magic begins on the main S wall above the dry waterfall and below the "white eagle" (refer to topo on pg. 46 of Umpqua Guide).

P1: steep sustained 5.10a friction, full 50m, z-clipping not an issue here. Bolt placements may seem runout to some but steep enough to provide safe air time. First pitch definitely PG or R. Caution!!: belay 1st pitch from base of the climb and not from the dry waterfall top anchors.

P2: sustained 5.10b friction up to the "white eagle" with a strenuous single crux move over the "wing" headwall. Bolt spacing becomes closer through pitch-2 especially compared to P1. There is a single strenuous move before the next belay. I've gotten feedback that this is probably a 5.10c move, but if you are 5'5" it is more like .11a (would love a second opinion on ratings). There is a bolt protecting this move that can be used to aid through it in a pinch. Together P1 & P2 make for about 300 feet (approx) of very sustained climbing.

As a side note, while on the first ascent on P2 I had two young peregrine land on either side of me to watch while I climbed while their mother patiently cruised back and forth keeping watch. Definitely a magical day.

P3: approximately 125 feet of 5.7-8 climbing to the top of the false summit and register, tying in with Pitch 8 of the Peregrine Traverse.

As yet there are no rap chains on Black Magic so I recommend two ropes and some cheap webbing in case you want to bail.

To descend use rap chains located at the bottom of the "dirty chimney" of Pitch 9 of the Peregrine Traverse and walk back to the base of Black Magic or up to the Acker Rock Lookout. Caution: Pulling you rope after rapping down from the register can be problematic and is not recommended.

Better yet, finish the day on Eagle's Dare.

Location

Use one of two approaches.

1. from the Acker Rock Lookout toilet, hike straight down hill between Wizards Tower (left) and the main South Face (right). Black Magic will be the only bolt line you see as you come around the South Face. You may also see the belay bolts on top of the Dry Water Fall directly across from Black Magic. Caution!!: there will be several steep slabs to negotiate, or rappel from a tree, before reaching the broad sandy shelf at the base of Black Magic.

2. from the Climber's access trail leading into the Sun Bowl as you first approach the first main formation (Observation Point) watch for the dry waterfall where you will find a short bolt line (a dirty 60 foot 5.8) to the right of the water fall leading to a broad sandy shelf at the base of "Black Magic".