Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Harold Hall and Greg Orton, 1997.
Page Views: 1,543 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Aug 24, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Approach from either the Dry Waterfall (5.8) or scramble downhill from the Lookout toilet, with an exposed Class IV scramble to the base of the South Face and bolted line on Wizzard's Tower. Wizards Tower is a moderate 150' (5.7) with consistent climbing at the grade, as the route winds over the bulges on the Southeast face. With a mix of jugs and slab, the exposure increases exponentially during the route all the way to the summit. Bolts are placed when climbing is consistent, but expect runouts on easier terrain. Alpine draws can be nice to reduce rope drag.

Descent- Rappel about 30' off the East face (backside) of the tower, aiming for the large fir tree below. From here, you can hike uphill towards the backside of the rock, where a small ledge feeds into the hillside. The trail to the fire lookout is easily accessible from this point, and is located in the trees as you continue to traverse across the back of the formation. Refer to pg 46 Topo in 2007 W. OR volume 2 - Umpqua climbing guide.

Location Suggest change

Use the climber access trail to traverse to the base of the main rock feature. A gully feeds a (hopefully) dry waterfall streak, which is where the climb starts (this is also known as the waterfall route).

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, PG - leads and exposure may not be suitable for someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

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