Avg: 2 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||944 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Hug on Aug 24, 2018 · Updates|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…
Wizards Tower is a moderate route that offers an exposed feeling, diversity in movement and consistent climbing during the final pitch up the feature. The route consists of 3 pitches, with most of the actual climbing in the final one. The climb ends at a pinnacle summit, and offers sweeping views of the southern skyline. There is a lot of the endemic buckwheat on this route, so please avoid stepping on it.
Pitch 1- 35' (5.8) Also known as the waterfall route, a short climb follows the winter runoff on a small vertical face to a bowl at the bottom of the main rock face. This route is also used to access Black Magic. Since this section of rock gets runoff from the rock above, there is a lot of moss and other organic matter growing on the route. Make sure to avoid rope drag on the trees.
Pitch 2- 120' This "pitch" is really just an access scramble to the actual tower. You can bushwhack through the bottom of the bowl, or climb the moss garden closer to the edge. Aim for the right side of the tower past the trees where a two bolt anchor rests at the base of the rock. There are no bolts on this pitch.
Pitch 3- 150' (5.7) This pitch offers consistent climbing at the grade, as the route winds over the bulges on the Southeast face. With a mix of jugs and slab, the exposure increases exponentially during the route all the way to the summit. Bolts are placed when climbing is consistent, but expect runouts on easier terrain. Alpine draws can be nice to reduce rope drag.
Descent- Rappel about 30' off the East face (backside) of the tower, aiming for the large fir tree below. From here, you can hike uphill towards the backside of the rock, where a small ledge feeds into the hillside. The trail to the fire lookout is easily accessible from this point, and is located in the trees as you continue to traverse across the back of the formation.
Use the climber access trail to traverse to the base of the main rock feature. A gully feeds a (hopefully) dry waterfall streak, which is where the climb starts (this is also known as the waterfall route).