Type: Sport, 710 ft (215 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: g orton & harold hall, Nov. 2005
Page Views: 5,339 total · 66/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

Original Description via Route Developer - "You will find a description on pages 60 and 61 in vol. 2 of the Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Umpqua, 2007, Mtn. 'N Air Books. Crux is on pitch 2(5.9+). Once you've made the "Terrible Traverse" (~30 ft 5.8) you are committed to finishing the final 2 pitches to the pinnacle's summit (5.6 - 5.8). 90% of the climb has fantastic airy exposure making this an Acker classic.

Descent: Rappel off summit chains down backside about 35 to the saddle ridge and belay anchors. From belay anchors scramble/climb to the tree to your right where you will find a crack (Class IV). Follow the crack out onto the upper face to your right to the first set of rappel chains you used to rappel into Eagle's Dare. Exit through the gap to your right.

Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo G page 61."

Amendments for pitch clarity (some recommendations), or rather how it seems people have managed to climb the route over the years.

P1 - 150', climb the low angle slab passing 3 bolts to a belay station. Continue on past the belay clipping 8 more bolts through well protected terrain. Combines the guidebook's pitch 1&2.

P2 - 150', head up and right from the belay stepping through an overlap and onto a buttress passing what used to be a two bolt belay but is now a single bolt and a stud. Follow the well featured buttress  to another belay station. Combines the guidebook's pitch 3 & 4.

P3 - 40', a short 4 bolt traverse to the right meets the belay below the guide books described pitch 6. (Note: this pitch can be linked with the described pitch 2 above with climbers discretion.  Considerations to run this as its own pitch are potential rope drag, communication with belayer, and pendulum falls on the traverse which would probably be minor due to the friendly bolt spacing.) Guidebook's pitch 5.

P4 - 150', head up into the corner passing 15 bolts along the way. Guidebook's pitch 6.

P5 - 200', super fun featured climbing up the headwall. Be prepared for some healthy bolt spacing. Skip the midway belay anchors and continue straight up the nose of the buttress (or build belay here and add a pitch to this section). It should be noted that there is a bolt to the right of the two bolt anchor you are passing. The climbing above this anchor is above and to the left of the anchor bolts not to the right as this bolt might suggest. Continue straight up from these anchors for about 25' to find the next bolt. Healthy spacing, but the bolts are there. Clip 12 bolts on this long pitch. Guidebook's pitch 7.

P6 - 60', rappel 30' or so into the saddle from the second rappel station (euro style) adjacent and down from the belay on the summit of the pinnacle. Once in the saddle look up and behind you for a 2 bolt anchor on the next fin of rock under the lookout (good idea to sport this across the saddle before you begin the rappel).  Stay on rappel, scramble up the blocks, and anchor to the described bolts.  

P7 - 40', once your second has joined you at the belay, run a final exposed 4th class pitch up a mossy corner slinging a tree just before you step right (under the tree) and climb on up to the the first anchor you rappelled from on the initial descent.  

P8 - 25', from here belay a short pitch up to and over the summit ridge and that's a wrap.

Location Suggest change

From the lookout follow the ridge left (south) to first large gap in the ridge. Cross through the gap contouring approximately 30' to  where you will find 2 bolts with rap rings. Make 8 100' raps to the grassy base of the pinnacle. After the last low angle grassy rappel, the start of the climb will be around 50' climbers left across the large basin in which you stand. Note: there is a 5.6 bolt line leading back up to the summit ridge from the end of the 2nd rap. After this you are committed to finishing the rappels.

Protection Suggest change

3/8" SS Fixe Double Expansion. Rappel Chains for rappel into back saddle with a short scramble or easy climb back to the original rap anchors on main ridge (can sling tree if needed).
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.