Elevation: 3,655 ft
GPS: 43.052, -122.646 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,074 total · 188/month
Shared By: Josh Golden Eagle on Sep 8, 2015 with updates from gso Orton and 1 other
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Wildlife Closure: Temporarily Closed Details

Description

Acker rock is the one of the finest destinations for adventure climbing in Southern Oregon. Initially known for the fire lookout on top, it is now a place for weekend climbers to explore climbing in a rather isolated area. Acker Rock contains a number of class III climbs that are otherwise nonexistent in this part of the state. The most notable of which are Peregrine Traverse and Eagles Dare, which both scale several hundred feet. Other exciting climbs, such as Black Magic, Maltese Falcon, and Wizards Tower, populate the area as well. All routes are sparsely bolted by sport climbing standards, but can be backed up with a light rack covering ½ to 4 inches.

Most of the climbing is slab-friction, with some areas being sandier than others. The rock is quite coarse, allowing decent grip in most places. Adventure climbing would be the best way to describe most climbs, with lengthy runouts, long climbs, and low traffic climbs that always could use a little cleaning.

The rock does contain a Peregrine population, which can be seen swooping along the base of the rock. As a friend once told me, “If you don’t see a Peregrine at Acker, you aren’t paying attention”. As a result, there is an annual closure from January 1 until 2 weeks after the young peregrines have fledged. There is also an endemic buckwheat that grows throughout the rock formation.

Getting There

From I-5 take Canyonville exit, taking Douglas County Highway 1 to Tiller, OR. Go NE on BLM Road 28 for 16.8 mi. Turn right on NF-28/S Umpqua Road. Go 1.9 mi and turn right on NF-29. Go 5.7 mi and turn left on NF-2838. Go 1.5 mi and turn left on NF-950. Drive to the gate and park on the side. Do not block the gate.

Hike up hill on NF-950 about 0.5 mile carefully looking for pink or orange flagged trail entrance on left side of road.

Follow flagged trail about 0.5 mile to reach the climbing.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Acker Rock Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Acker Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Peregrine Traverse
Trad 9 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 6
Eagle's Dare
Sport 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peregrine Traverse
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 9 pitches
Eagle's Dare
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Acker Rock »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
gso Orton   Roseburg, OR
As of October 30 the register shows 74 climbers on the Peregrine Traverse between June and November in-spite of the smoke this summer. We've found weekends to be a little crowded, by SW OR standards, but weekdays to be mellow. Week days are also your best option for renting the Lookout especially in the Fall, my favorite time for climbing Acker.
This summer we added rap chains on Maltese Falcon suitable for 30 m raps and a set or rap chains for the short rap from the top of Eagle's Dare into the saddle.
g Orton, SW OR Climber's Coalition Nov 4, 2017
gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
gso Orton   Roseburg, OR
Best time to climb acker is in the spring and fall. August can get very hot as there is seldom shade once on the rock.
To rent the lookout go to recreation.gov/camping/camp… Aug 19, 2018
Dave Hug
Carbondale, Illinois
Dave Hug   Carbondale, Illinois  
Add some bolts on the second pitch of Wizard Tower. Your guide acts like it’s a simple walk to the base of the tower, I did not find it to be so Aug 24, 2018
gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
gso Orton   Roseburg, OR
January is the best time to make summer and fall reservations for the Acker Rock Lookout.
The Lookout on top Acker Rock can be rented for about $40 per night.
Reservations can be made by going to recreation.gov/camping/camp…
Weekends will fill early and your best option may be weekdays.
For more information you can contact the Tiller Ranger Station (541) 825-3100
Peregrines closure lifts 2 weeks after fledging (typically July 1, but never later than July 15). Oct 30, 2018