Avg: 3.5 from 33 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 9 pitches|
|FA:||Hall & Orton|
|Page Views:||8,368 total · 111/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Golden Eagle on Sep 8, 2015 · Updates|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.
For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…
Fun traverse with excellent views, if you don't mind somewhat sparse protection.
Pitch 1: Scramble 4th class ridge up to tree. Place gear if needed.
Pitch 2: Climb diagonally up and left, following widely spaced bolts past top anchor chains for Sinister Footwear, then straight up to upper left ridgeline and bolted belay anchors just to the right of tree (5.7). Recommendation (go): to reduce drag, as you come to the corner in the middle of P2 do not clip into the top anchor of Sinister Footwear.
Pitch 2 var. (5.7): from Sinister Footwear top anchors climb left crossing below the ridge-tree and out onto the very end of the ridgeline prow (2 bolt belay). Place gear to 3".
Pitch 3: Climb slab with 3 bolts to your right (5.7) recommended, or scramble straight up and across left-sloping slab slinging small trees (5.0) then crossing over to right side of ridge at Lunch Rock.
For both options, scramble along ledges to the only small tree at the base of Lunch Rock. Please note, you are unlikely to hear each other from this location.
Pitch 4 (5.6): Traverse about 40 feet, clipping anchors for Lunch Route and the two other bolts along the way. Then down-climb 10 feet into saddle, then go up left side of ridge on the other side of the saddle. About 20 feet up there are options for pro. Another 10-15 about that you'll find two sets of belay anchors on the large ledge at the base of the next headwall.
Pitch 4 5.8 var.: Down-climb into saddle where you'll find a single bolt to belay from. From here climb the lower headwall (2 bolts) onto the larger belay ledge.
Pitch 5: Climb straight up 15 feet past two bolts. Continue through short wide crack (#4 cam). Continue scrambling your way until you see two small trees, at which you'll find two bolt anchor (5.7). Note (go): once on top of the short wide crack, looking off to the right (E) you'll see top anchors & chains for Maltese Falcon (P3) left variation. This route has been upgraded with rap chains.
Pitch 6: Scramble on left side of ridge clipping two bolts along the way. Continue to bolted anchors at wide crack about 20 feet above a lone douglas fir. Note (go): this section is easily supplemented with a variety of cam sizes.
Pitch 7: Scramble up wide crack into gap with a narrow ridge ahead of you. Scramble up narrow ridge, clipping one bolt on the way. Continue on the ridge. Soon you'll see belay anchors on your left, and anchors and register for Black Magic on your right. You are now at the top of Black Magic. You could probably use either set of anchors, but I used the anchors on the left (West side). (5.4)
Pitch 8: From the west (left anchors), look 15 feet in front of you on left side and locate the climbing register & top anchors for Back Magic. DON'T Rappel from the rotten tree as some are doing (go). Instead follow the ridge line (easterly) to its end (1 bolt) and downclimb 10 feet to a trail and ledge that contours into the saddle to the left (looking down). The down climb (class 4) is easily protected with a #3 or #4 cam. From the saddle, Scramble northward on easy but exposed terrain about 30 feet. Downclimb easy fourth class for 10 feet to another ledge at base of a chimney, or set up a trad anchor and belay your partner down to this ledge. Once on the ledge you'll find a set of rappel/belay chain anchors near the bottom of the dirty chimney. Note: if you choose to rappel off at this point, once off, scramble uphill to Lookout and the Lookout trail.
Pitch 9: Climb chimney. About 20 feet up chimney you'll find places for pro. Continue up right side, and gaining top of ridge. Sling small tree for pro. Continue out narrow knife ridge for 20 feet (no further pro) to two bolted rappel anchors. May be difficult to hear each other at this point. (5.5).
Descent: Looking towards the lookout, rappel down right side from end of the knife-ridge to the base of the large tree. Do not rappel past the tree ledge unless you want to do some extra scrambling / forest navigation. From the base of the tree follow the scramble trail horizontally, not down, and up into the trees until you find the Acker Rock Lookout. Follow the Lookout trail .25 as it switchbacks down to NF-950, and then 1 mi on NF-950 to the gate where you started.
Alternative Bail-points: Lunch Route P1, Maltese Falcon P2.
Locate rock cairn and pink flags for the trail on left side of NF-950 about 0.5 mi up hill from the gate.
Hike about 0.5 on flagged trail, carefully following the flags.
Once you start see rocks, stay close to the base of the rocks and continue following flags. The first large rock face you come to will be Observation Rock. Trail and flagging end at the Sun Bowl with the ridge beginning Peregrine Traverse to your right.