Avg: 3.5 from 27 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 9 pitches|
|FA:||Hall & Orton|
|Page Views:||6,575 total · 107/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Golden Eagle on Sep 8, 2015 with 3 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
Climbing is prohibited from January 1 until two weeks after young have fledged. Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.
For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…
Pitch 1: Scramble low 5th class ridge up to tree.
Pitch 2: Climb diagonally up and left, following a few bolts to bolted anchor just to the right of tree (5.7). Recommendation (go): to reduce drag, as you come to the corner in the middle of P1 do not clip into the top anchor of Sinister Footwear.
Pitch 3: Climb slab with 3 bolts to your right (5.7), or go scramble straight up and place your own pro (5.0). For both options, scramble along ledges to the only small tree at the base of Lunch Rock. Please note, you may not be able to hear each other from this location.
Pitch 4: Traverse about 40 feet, clipping anchors for another route and the two other bolts along the way. Then downclimb 10 feet into saddle, then go up left side of ridge on the other side of the saddle. About 20 feet up there are options for pro. Another 10-15 about that you'll find bolted anchors. (5.6). Option (go): place a #3 cam after leaving the saddle, below belay slab.
Pitch 5: Climb straight up 10 feet to the only bolt on this pitch. Continue through short wide crack (#3 or #4 cam). Continue scrambling your way until you see two small trees, at which you'll find two bolt anchor (5.7). Note (go): once on top of the short wide crack, looking off to the right (E) you'll see top anchors & chains for Maltese Falcon (P3) left variation. This route has been upgraded with rap chains.
Pitch 6: Scramble on left side of ridge clipping two bolts along the way. Continue to bolted anchors at wide crack about 20 feet above a douglas fir. Note (go): this section is easily supplemented with a variety of cam sizes.
Pitch 7: Scramble up wide crack into gap with a narrow ridge ahead of you. Scramble up narrow ridge, clipping one bolt on the way. Continue on the ridge. Soon you'll see belay anchors on your left, and anchors and register for Black Magic on your right. You are now at the top of Black Magic. You could probably use either set of anchors, but I used the anchors on the left (West side). (5.4)
Pitch 8: From the west (left anchors), look 15 feet in front of you on left side and locate the climbing register & top anchors for Back Magic. DON'T Rappel about 40 feet to a ledge from the rotten tree as some are doing (go). Instead follow the ridge line (easterly) to its end and down climb 10 feet to a trail and ledge that contours into the saddle to the left (looking down). The down climb (class 4) is easily protected with a #3 or #4 cam. From the saddle, Scramble northward on easy but exposed terrain about 30 feet. Downclimb easy fourth class for 10 feet to another ledge at base of a chimney, or set up a trad anchor and belay your partner down.
Pitch 9: Climb chimney. About 20 feet up chimney you'll find places for pro. Continue up right side, and gaining top of ridge. Use small tree for pro. Continue on narrow ridge for 20 feet (no further pro) to two bolted anchors. May be difficult to hear each other at this point. (5.5).
Descent: Complete the climb by locating the rap anchors 3 feet to your right, and rapping to the base of the large tree. Do not rap past the tree unless you want to do some extra scrambling / forest navigation. From the base of the tree follow the scramble trail horizontally, not down, and up into the trees until you find the Acker Rock Lookout. Follow the Lookout trail .25 as it switchbacks down to NF-950, and then 1 mi on NF-950 to the gate where you started.
Hike about 0.5 on flagged trail, carefully following the flags.
Once you start see rocks, stay close to the base of the rocks and continue following flags.
When you have an open view to your far left, a vertical rock face on your left with a few bolted lines, and a easy class 5 ridge scramble directly in front of you, you are at the start of the Peregrine Traverse.