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Wizard Tower

5.7, Sport, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Harold Hall and Greg Orton, 1997.
Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Acker Rock
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure - Jan 1st - July 1st DetailsDrop down

Description

Approach from either the Dry Waterfall (5.8) or scramble downhill from the Lookout toilet, with an exposed Class IV scramble to the base of the South Face and bolted line on Wizzard's Tower. Wizards Tower is a moderate 150' (5.7) with consistent climbing at the grade, as the route winds over the bulges on the Southeast face. With a mix of jugs and slab, the exposure increases exponentially during the route all the way to the summit. Bolts are placed when climbing is consistent, but expect runouts on easier terrain. Alpine draws can be nice to reduce rope drag.

Descent- Rappel about 30' off the East face (backside) of the tower, aiming for the large fir tree below. From here, you can hike uphill towards the backside of the rock, where a small ledge feeds into the hillside. The trail to the fire lookout is easily accessible from this point, and is located in the trees as you continue to traverse across the back of the formation. Refer to pg 46 Topo in 2007 W. OR volume 2 - Umpqua climbing guide.

Location

Use the climber access trail to traverse to the base of the main rock feature. A gully feeds a (hopefully) dry waterfall streak, which is where the climb starts (this is also known as the waterfall route).

Protection

Bolts, PG - leads and exposure may not be suitable for someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of Wizards Tower in relation to the rest of Acker Rock
[Hide Photo] Topo of Wizards Tower in relation to the rest of Acker Rock
Pitch 2, option 1: march through the moss
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2, option 1: march through the moss
Pitch 2, option 2: bushwhack through less steep terrain
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2, option 2: bushwhack through less steep terrain

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J P
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Fun little tower. It's enjoyable to see what 'consistent 5.7' is like!
For Pitch 1 (Waterfall Route), you may feel like scooting around some trees in the way to follow the easiest line, but you'll be introducing some bad rope drag.

As the description says, pitch 2 is a scramble, nothing too difficult, but I could imagine if the moss was wet, it could be slippery. If you're planning ahead, bring a small brush and help future climbers.

There's probably a way to get back into the bowl from the summit if you were going to climb Black Magic afterward, but it's not an obvious descent - I'd be concerned about nearing the end of your rope.

If you climb this, it should probably be your last climb of the day so you can hike out on the official trail. Aug 25, 2020
BendB
Bend, OR
  5.7 R
[Hide Comment] A poorly protected, contrived, and run-out route preceded by two forgettable pitches. I was able to place a couple of pieces of supplemental pro in the upper section, but by then I was over it. Once you rap down from the top, head skiers left hugging the left side of the formation and it will dump you right out at the lookout trail. Like JP said, make this your last one if you decide this give this one a shot. Oct 20, 2020
gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
[Hide Comment] If you look at the 2007 western oregon Umpqua guide pg. 47 the 5.7 route up Wizard's is only considered to be a single pitch, or the last pitch as described here in MP rather than the 3 pitches described. Considering the 2nd pitch (a class IV scramble) as part of the climb will surely lead to some misguided expectations, as accuraltely articulated in several comments. As JP noted, it's not a suitable approach when wet. Wizard's and Black Magic can both be accessed by scrambling down from the lookout toilet to avoid the route up the dry waterfall. It may also be helpful to note that some scrambles at Acker may not be suitable for some new to alpine climbing. Mar 28, 2021