PRINT: Rock Climb Maltese Falcon, Southwest Oregon

Maltese Falcon

5.9 PG13, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Greg Orton and Harold Hall, 1997.
Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Acker Rock

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure - Jan 1st - July 1st Details

Climbing is prohibited from January 1 until two weeks after young have fledged, usually July 1st.

Seasonal restrictions are applied to specific areas on the Umpqua National Forest for natural resource protection, including wildlife protection. These restrictions are utilized to protect certain wildlife species during their breeding cycle. Some species are very susceptible to human disturbance, and even minimal contact or entry into areas utilized for breeding can negatively impact their reproductive effort. For this reason, a seasonal restriction is applied and access into the area is prohibited. The seasonal restriction applied to an area may be lifted if the results of monitoring indicate that keeping the restriction in place is no longer necessary. Rock climbing is one of many activities with the potential to affect local natural resources.

For more information Visit: fs.usda.gov/recarea/umpqua/…

Description

This was our first route up Acker and still a memorable favorite for me (go).

Pitch 1: follow the seam straight up, 5.9.

Pitch 2: (5.9) continues straight up ending at rappel chains just shy of the Peregrine Traverse ridge.

Pitch 3: Either continue on Pitch 5 of the Peregrine Traverse or make two 100 ft raps to base of Maltese Falcon (3 raps back to climber's trail). About the middle of P2 is an alternate variation off to the right (5.8) ending at the belay for pitch 6 of the Peregrine Traverse.

Refer to Topo A pp. 46 & description on pp.49 of Western Oregon Rock Climbing, Vol. 2, Umpqua

Location

Follow the climber's access trail past the dry waterfall to the obvious switchback taking you down hill. Instead of following the switchback scramble uphill to the large madrone. looking uphill from the madrone you will see the boltline for Maltese Falcon following the seam to your left.

Protection

bolts, belays have been upgraded with rappel chains and can now be rapped using using two 60m ropes from anchors on the Peregrine Traverse.
On hind-sight, first pitch has features that will take gear if needed.
PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of Maltese Falcon in relation to the rest of Acker Rock