Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Antoine Savelli
Page Views: 940 total · 12/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 2, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Please use high traverse above our property for access to both Jungle Gyms DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1. 5.9. Slab climb on the left side of the grotto. It is a little runout, and there is loose rock up high where it gets easier. The protection is bolts.

P2. From the anchors, clip a low bolt (chest height), and climb the slab/flared chimney to cracks and up to a big ledge. From the ledge, make a bouldery move (hard clip) to gain the base of the open book/corner system. Make some balancy face moves to gain the arete/corner system with a tough mantel. After the mantel, the last 30+ feet up the arete/corner are superb. Midway up the final arete, you can opt for an easier finish up the left corner system (5.11) or continue direct up the razor edge of the arete on the right (5.12, thin face). The left corner stays a little dirty, but there are good finger locks.

Location Suggest change

Start at the right hand side of the flared chimney/crack system in the middle of the bush gully, 80 feet up at the top of the pillar in the bush gully. You can't see the anchors from the base, but they are in the back of the gully behind the anchors for the central slab routes. The anchors have rap rings. There are multiple options to get up to anchors, the easiest being the far left side slab, or far right side crack (first pitch of The Bush, 5.5). You can also climb any of the routes on the right face (Yellow Jersey, Yorkey's Crumpet, etc.), and rap down to the gully ledge. There are lots of options.

Protection Suggest change

13 clips and two bolt anchor with rap rings.

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