| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.8605, -107.86439 |
| FA: | Antoine Savelli |
| Page Views: | 1,002 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jan 2, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
As of July 2020: my name is Antoine Savelli. My wife and I have lived below the Ophir Wall putting new routes up for 40 years. Access to the lower East Buttress is now closed from our property, indefinitely.
Description
P1. 5.9. Slab climb on the left side of the grotto. It is a little runout, and there is loose rock up high where it gets easier. The protection is bolts.
P2. From the anchors, clip a low bolt (chest height), and climb the slab/flared chimney to cracks and up to a big ledge. From the ledge, make a bouldery move (hard clip) to gain the base of the open book/corner system. Make some balancy face moves to gain the arete/corner system with a tough mantel. After the mantel, the last 30+ feet up the arete/corner are superb. Midway up the final arete, you can opt for an easier finish up the left corner system (5.11) or continue direct up the razor edge of the arete on the right (5.12, thin face). The left corner stays a little dirty, but there are good finger locks.
Location
Start at the right hand side of the flared chimney/crack system in the middle of the bush gully, 80 feet up at the top of the pillar in the bush gully. You can't see the anchors from the base, but they are in the back of the gully behind the anchors for the central slab routes. The anchors have rap rings. There are multiple options to get up to anchors, the easiest being the far left side slab, or far right side crack (first pitch of The Bush, 5.5). You can also climb any of the routes on the right face (Yellow Jersey, Yorkey's Crumpet, etc.), and rap down to the gully ledge. There are lots of options.



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