Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||3,836 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Antoine Savelli on Jul 25, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
As of July 2020: my name is Antoine Savelli. My wife and I have lived below the Ophir Wall putting new routes up for 40 years. Access to the lower East Buttress is now closed from our property, indefinitely.
Pitch 1 is 6b+ or 5.10d, 11a to double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 is 8c+ or 5.15a if one stays dead center under crux bolts (upper section). There is an option to use the right crack, 5.11. Bring small to medium TCUs. Anchor to chains. It has fine rock and tricky sequences.
If one does not use crack, it is hard to onsight redpoint. The crack needs some more cleaning if used. I have never seen an onsight flash of Corsuca Accident by the left wall over the little overhang. Neither has Cosa Nostra, another of my routes, never have I seen an onsight, flash redpoint. Living below, I have mused at the so called ‘hardmen’ spending months even years flailing on these! I saw Adam Ondra at the world cup in Chamonix France today onsight flash a 8c+ in front of 17 000 people! Be a winner not a loser! Be honest, and climb like a champion!
Greatness is humility.