Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Antoine Savelli
Page Views: 3,836 total · 31/month
Shared By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 25, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please use high traverse above our property for access to both Jungle Gyms Details

Description

Pitch 1 is 6b+ or 5.10d, 11a to double bolt belay.

Pitch 2 is 8c+ or 5.15a if one stays dead center under crux bolts (upper section). There is an option to use the right crack, 5.11. Bring small to medium TCUs. Anchor to chains. It has fine rock and tricky sequences.

If one does not use crack, it is hard to onsight redpoint. The crack needs some more cleaning if used. I have never seen an onsight flash of Corsuca Accident by the left wall over the little overhang. Neither has Cosa Nostra, another of my routes, never have I seen an onsight, flash redpoint. Living below, I have mused at the so called ‘hardmen’ spending months even years flailing on these! I saw Adam Ondra at the world cup in Chamonix France today onsight flash a 8c+ in front of 17 000 people! Be a winner not a loser! Be honest, and climb like a champion!

Greatness is humility.

Location

This is on the Lower East Buttress, East of Jungle Gym. It is a a long 7 minute approach from our house, versus the 3 minute approach for the Jungle Gym. Photos will come later.

Protection

10 clips.

Photos