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Narcolepsy
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | Troy Mayr and Steve Axthelm, 1987 |
Page Views: | 829 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Dog The Booty Hunter on Nov 7, 2017 |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Narcolepsy is a steep finger to hand crack. The crux feels like its within the first 5-8 ft (getting into the crack) where there is a slight overhang to it. Some of the moves are strenuous almost bouldery moves. A generous helping of features on the outside adds for creative and fun climbing. It takes good pro and there seems to be good rests for placing it. Awesome exit to the top. It goes somewhat quick, so savor it. I wish it was longer, would get more stars. Its not in the new guidebook, so if you're looking for it, you'll have to consult the older Vogel/Gaines book.
Location
The route is actually easy to access. The easiest way is to ascend the 5.2 East Buttress Gully which dead ends at a massive pine tree. Anchor off that for your belay and look up to your right. Its the obvious steep crack system. The other option is to link this climb with one of the other Buttress of Cracks Routes. If you do so, you'll have to traverse the East Buttress Ledge and climb up into the corner where the start is (makes for a fun two pitch adventure). Top out where Low Pressure and the Warm Up top out and do the 3rd class descent off the back around the corner from Shake Down. (Consult older guide book)
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