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> (l) Buttress of…
> Buttress of Cracks -…
Blade Runner
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.7 from 12
votes
Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side
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Blade Runner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Low Pressure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spatula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Warm Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zorro Zucchinis from Alpha Centuri Four T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 33.77002, -116.69415 |
| FA: | (TR) Bob Gaines, September 1986; First Lead: Steve Sutton & Clark Jacobs, December 1991 |
| Page Views: | 3,495 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb Warm Up for about 10 feet then cut right to the amazing arete. Subtle yet taxing moves up the arete lead to a technical crux just before the last bolt, after which it eases to the top.
This is a great climb that requires good footwork and balance; cooler temperatures help as well.
The arete can be climbed on either side but my beta was to move to the right side after the first bolt then cut back onto the left side just below the last bolt.
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