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> Buttress of Cracks -…
Blade Runner
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 11
votes
Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side
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Blade Runner T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Low Pressure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spatula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Warm Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zorro Zucchinis from Alpha Centuri Four T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | (TR) Bob Gaines, September 1986, FL: Steve Sutton & Clark Jacobs, December 1991 |
| Page Views: | 3,350 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb Warm Up for about 10' or so and then cut right to the amazing arete. Subtle yet taxing moves up the arete lead to a technical crux just before the last bolt, after which it's a cruise to the top.
This is a great climb that requires good footwork and balance...cooler temps don't hurt either. It's possible to climb the arete on either side, but I found it easier to move to the right side after the first bolt and then cut back onto the left side just below the last bolt.
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