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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side

Blade Runner T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Low Pressure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spatula T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines, September 1986, FL: Steve Sutton & Clark Jacobs, December 1991
Page Views: 2,349 total, 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb Warm Up for about 10' or so and then cut right to the amazing arete. Subtle yet taxing moves up the arete lead to a technical crux just before the last bolt, after which it's a cruise to the top.

This is a great climb that requires good footwork and balance...cooler temps don't hurt either. It's possible to climb the arete on either side, but I found it easier to move to the right side after the first bolt and then cut back onto the left side just below the last bolt.

Protection

3 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"), a few pieces to 3" for the start

Photos

Bob Gaines
  5.12b
Bob Gaines  
  5.12b
The first bolt is on the right side of the arete. The second and third bolts are on the left side of the arete. Jan 23, 2007
As of my last visit (1/07), I could only locate two bolts on this route. Jan 12, 2007