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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side

Blade Runner T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Low Pressure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spatula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zorro Zucchinis from Alpha Centuri Four T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Clark Jacobs & Lisa Fry, August 1992
Page Views: 638 total · 6/month
Shared By: Eric Foltz on Aug 6, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Route starts just to the right of Nawab with a bolt protecting a thin crux move. Move up and right to join Spatula at its first bolt.

Rating and "R" are from the book. Cruxes are well protected but the second bolt is pretty high up.

Location

Just to the right of Nawab at the far right side of the buttress of cracks. This is the first face you see coming up the trail.

Protection

Three bolts, slings to tie off big knob and flake, small cam optional.

Photos

Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
I would say that the crux is actually COMMITTING to the 3rd/last bolt (if you count the bolt on the 11a section down low). It's a reach and I had to really trust my left foot to make that clip--once I had a draw on that one, the rest was cruiser--hard but not terrifying. If you miss that clip, you're looking at a nasty, bumpy fall past the middle bolt. As for protecting the upper section by slinging the knob--better to put a cam or nut under the flake--once you're at the knob the climb's over and a sling on that would be pointless. May 27, 2012

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