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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side

Blade Runner T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Low Pressure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spatula T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Clark Jacobs and Eric Erickson, 1974
Page Views: 1,180 total, 8/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb starts a bit to the right of East Buttress Gully, near the very lowest point of the rock. It's a thin face climb, with a bolt at the crux move. Walk off to the right from the ledge at the end of the route. This climb is in the sun until mid-afternoon.

Protection

two bolts plus a few nut placements, plus some gear (or long slings) for the anchor

Photos

Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
Love this climb as a top rope after leading The Plague. There is a fun variation I do that isn't described in the book starting between the 5.11 variation and the seam/crack that presumably starts this route. I think it fits better with the 5.10 rating of this route because the 5.7 start outlined in my guide book is pretty easy and there's only 1 or 2 solid 5.10 moves on this pitch anyway, in my opinion. Nov 6, 2010
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
Short and sweet crux a must do when in the area... May 2, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
This wall is often top-roped.

There's a 5.11- variation start beginning on the left - one bolt to the main route. Jul 8, 2006