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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side

Blade Runner T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Low Pressure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spatula T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,085 total, 8/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first crack system to the right of East Buttress Gully. The first pitch has a mix of crack and face climbing. A clean, tight squeeze chimney on the second pitch is the crux, but it eases quickly after the first few moves. To descend, scramble left and up to the top of the buttress, then do a short downclimb on the far side.

Protection

standard rack, with some larger pieces

Photos

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Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
The awkward start on this route makes it a challenge to lead, but after that it's a fun crack climb. Crux is when the crack flares out and disappears before you reach the under-cling flake. Have a small cam or two ready to place under the flake when you get up there if you're worried about a big fall. Small tree plus a few pockets for cams/tricams for your anchor. Nov 6, 2010