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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Right Side

Blade Runner T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
East Buttress Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Low Pressure T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Narcolepsy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nawab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plague, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shake Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spatula T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spatula - Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson
Page Views: 699 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a short, steep lieback on good rock, with easy hand jamming above the roof. The crack will accept wired nuts or tiny cams, but it is very difficult to see into the crack and place gear while leading. Fortunately, it is easy to set up a toprope. This route receives morning sun.

Protection

thin gear for the crux; medium size pieces on the hand crack above

Photos

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I noticed High pressure variation isn't listed. You can stuff your toe into the roof crack, then reach out over the roof for a handhold, then drop both legs before swinging them up onto the face above the roof. 11a/b. Aug 15, 2017
DannyJ
San Diego, CA
  5.10c
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
  5.10c
Fun route, but I didn't think the start (or any part of the route) was very difficult to protect. You can look into the crack before you start and pre-plan your first couple pieces. Takes .5s really easily. Definitely did not think it was "R." Jul 8, 2017
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
I saw a fellow pop from up by the roof and deck on the ledge. Made a horrible hollow sound. He was battered but basically OK. May 22, 2012
Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
The new guidebook gives this route .10c, marking the initial part ".10" and the roof ".10c". IMO, the initial layback on lead is probably .10d, due in large part to the difficulty in finding solid gear. I wouldn't give the pitch an R, because good gear is available. I think the roof is easier than .10c as well. Jun 13, 2006
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10c R
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10c R
This is not 10a by any means. It is much harder than Pitch 3 of El Camino Real (10a layback) and more sustained than On The Road (10c layback). I'd say its at least 10c.

Difficult to protect as mentioned in the description. Jun 11, 2006