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Routes in The Eaglet

Peregrine Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Predator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad White, Dick Peterson, & Ian Cruickshank 1980
Page Views: 315 total · 26/month
Shared By: Eli . on Nov 7, 2017 with updates from Luke Fagan
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Check for possible closure due to Peregrine Falcon nesting Details

Description

Predator is the striking south arete you see in all the photos of people standing on the summit of the Eaglet. Pitch one has some difficult and cryptic crux climbing, while pitch two is a more sustained exciting arete climb with great exposure. If you're swapping leads, neither person loses. Both pitches start off with a bit of suspect feeling rock, but the quality gets much better by the time you're clipping the bolts.

P1: Climb a spooky dike filled with 'suspect' blocks and flakes to a suspect pin. Climb a little left and put pro in a good pod in a thin crack, then climb up towards the bolts. A hard to read crux past the bulge leads into a stance at the base of a short finger crack that climbs more like an offwidth. Gain the grassy ledge and look left for a hanging two bolt belay.
P2: Do what you can to safely clip the bolt directly above you, I went left to an old bolt and then back to the right. Avoid loose junk around here. After you clip the first good bolt do a fun juggy boulder problem to a stance above at the base of a sweet looking hand crack (don't climb it, sorry). Lean way right and clip a bolt around the arete, then climb around to the right side of the arete and progress upwards to another stance. Go up the arete again, maneuvering around it when necessary. eventually you'll clip the last bolt and do some ridge crawling to summitsville.

Location

Located to the right of where peregrine arete and the west chimney start, look for bolts starting 20-25 feet off the ground. This is Predator.

Protection

A light single rack of finger sized cams, 12 Draws

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