Peregrine Arete

Peregrine Arete follows an adventurous, meandering line up the south side of the Eaglet. The route breaks out right of the intimidating roof about 50 feet up, then follows corners and cracks to the top.

P1: The initial start is the same as the West Chimney, but quickly break right to a series of old pins that lead up and right toward the slab below the roof. Cross the slab up and right to an ancient buttonhead bolt (sketchy!) and a pin above, then break right around an undercling feature until you're below a right-facing corner finger crack. Work up this to a ledge belay. 5.9(+?)

P2: Break left off the belay, passing a bolt/rusty pin combo (easy choice there, right?), to a pillar, where a pin hides on the face above. From here I broke right (maybe you can go left up the face too) into the handcrack corner to the ledge above, then followed a left-arching crack to a final ledge, whence a couple tricky moves will gain the top (aim for the 2-bolt anchor). The left-arching crack felt at least 5.9.

Start up the slab as for West Chimney, but quickly break right toward the roof. Rap with 2 60m to get back to the ground, or with one rope rap down the west chimney and follow those anchors to the ground.

Single rack and plenty of long draws (lots of meandering), double ropes are helpful and allow you to rap in one long shot. Emphasis on smaller gear.