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Routes in The Eaglet

Peregrine Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Predator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Access Issue: Check for possible closure due to Peregrine Falcon nesting Details


The Eaglet rules.

But I'll get in to more detail. The most prominent free standing spire in the east, the Eaglet is detached from the main cliff for about a hundred feet, though most of the routes on it are around 200 feet long.
The most popular route is the West Chimney (5.7) which is a great alpine climb compared to any; there are other committing yet worthy climbs as well. Though it's not too tall, you should be be prepared for a cannon-like experience because the weather and loose rock could bring on an epic at any moment... after hiking the trail up you will see why you don't want to get hurt up here. It would be tough to get you down.

The Eaglet was first climbed in 1929 by Lincoln O'Brien and Robert Underhill; they down climbed in to the saddle between the main cliff and the spire and then up to the summit.

Getting There

Park at exit 34B for Cannon, walk east under the 93 underpass and locate a white sign for the greenleaf hut.  Shortly after starting the trail, look for a carin/steep trail to the left (see photos).  As per the beta below, if you see a big overhanging boulder on the left you have gone too far.  Per beta below, follow the hard right of the scree field once you hit it.  It is actually tricky to see the spire due to trees/from directly below it, so just keep in mind where it is when you see it.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Eaglet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The West Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The West Chimney
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
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It may be obvious to everyone but me, but the first rock face you encounter on the Eaglet trail isn't the Eaglet. The climb I found first had bolts in it. Follow the cairns uphill for a few more minutes. The start of the West Chimney still has pins in it. Aug 20, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Robert Lindley Murray Underhill...introduced modern rope and belaying techniques to the U.S. In the 1920s. Jul 22, 2015
Luna Luna
New Haven, CT
Luna Luna   New Haven, CT
the approach directions in the new "The Notches" guidebook doesn't have the most accurate description of distances. To find the eaglet trail, it was helpful to note that when seeking an overpass, stay on the bike path, DO NOT cross the highway to access the greenway trail. the "curve in the bike path" to access the eaglet trail, which will cross a bouldering area is visible from the overpass, a gravel path that dips down into the woods between some.. maybe 2-3 foot tall boulders.

hope that helps some folks, my partner and I got a little turned around yesterday Sep 5, 2017

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