Elevation: 2,422 ft
GPS: 44.171, -71.677 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,784 total · 235/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Check for possible closure due to Peregrine Falcon nesting Details

Description

The Eaglet rules.

But I'll get in to more detail. The most prominent free standing spire in the east, the Eaglet is detached from the main cliff for about a hundred feet, though most of the routes on it are around 200 feet long.
The most popular route is the West Chimney (5.7) which is a great alpine climb compared to any; there are other committing yet worthy climbs as well. Though it's not too tall, you should be be prepared for a cannon-like experience because the weather and loose rock could bring on an epic at any moment... after hiking the trail up you will see why you don't want to get hurt up here. It would be tough to get you down.

The Eaglet was first climbed in 1929 by Lincoln O'Brien and Robert Underhill; they down climbed in to the saddle between the main cliff and the spire and then up to the summit.

Getting There

Park at exit 34B for Cannon, walk east under the 93 underpass and locate a white sign for the greenleaf hut.  Shortly after starting the trail, look for a carin/steep trail to the left (see photos).  As per the beta below, if you see a big overhanging boulder on the left you have gone too far.  Per beta below, follow the hard right of the scree field once you hit it.  It is actually tricky to see the spire due to trees/from directly below it, so just keep in mind where it is when you see it.

[NOTE: There's an "expanded" version of the approach as a COMMENT to the West Chimney Route, R Hall Admin Agu 2019   Also note (from Sean M:"Measured the distance from the start of the greenleaf trail to the climbers trail for the eaglet, and its a hair shorter than 0.5 miles. If you've gone 0.6 miles on the greenleaf, you've passed it. Will see if I can upload a gps track, it's pretty straightforward though. I only post this because the description pointed out that an "overhanging boulder" is a sign that you've gone too far, when there is definitely an overhanging boulder a few minutes BEFORE the approach trail as well, "]

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Eaglet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 178
The West Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Unknown?
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 5
Peregrine Arete
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Predator
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The West Chimney
 178
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Unknown?
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Peregrine Arete
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Predator
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Eaglet »

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