The West Chimney

Pitch 1: Climb past at least one pin on steep rock till about 15 feet up where it gets slabby... At this point climb the slab up and left to easy yet loose ground heading in to the trees and a gully to the base of the chimney that marks the second pitch... Belay at the base of the chimney with gear... UPDATE 10/7/25: Per comments there is now a bolted anchor atop P1 

Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge. Typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may not need to be backed up...

Pitch 3: The traditional way to finish the route is to corkscrew your way through the notch between the cliff and the spire then up the back side of the spire and on to the spectacular summit... If you go this way there is only one hard move which is easier if you are tall...

Pitch 3 variation: I like this variation way more than the original... From the top of the chimney belay, head up a system of cracks to an arete staying on the west side of the spire... Break right on to the beautiful and exposed face following cracks as you traverse right to a fun and wicked exposed move on to a final slab to the top...

Which ever way you finish, you can belay from bolts on top and rap from the ring/bolts on the west face just over the lip...

The summit is so cool... It's about the size of a picnic table with nothing but air around you on all sides...

Amazing...

As you approach the eaglet this route starts on the left from a dirt ledge... You will see pins in a cracked face above...

Standard rack... A single rappel is possible with double ropes, otherwise utilize the bolted anchor on Predator to for two rappels doable with a 60m rope.

Jacob Stevens ( who submitted the note about single rapps down Predator) elaborates:  "Please don't rap down the way you climb up - it is unnecessary and you will likely be getting in the way of the numerous other parties trying to get up this thing - saw 10 parties on this on Sunday. There is a set of bolts & chains halfway down the spire that can easily break this into two raps - doable with a single 60m rope. As you're rapping down stick to the right of the ledge. You will know you are going down the right way if you see numerous bolts that are on the route "predator". The mid rap station you are looking for is the anchor atop the first pitch of predator. You are much less likely to get in the way of others rapping this way. .... Also, there are now bolts atop P1 so you don't need to worry about trusting pile of tat. You may still want to bring some to back-up for the P2 anchor as the tat is getting quite old here (as of 10/5/25). With how popular this route is, I am hoping a bolted anchor will grow atop P2 - given the other bolts on this thing I don't know if anyone would be opposed to this, and IMO is less impactful than leaving infinite ugly webbing/tat."