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Routes in The Eaglet

Peregrine Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Predator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Peter Gabriel
Page Views: 13,529 total · 100/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Check for possible closure due to Peregrine Falcon nesting Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb past at least one pin on steep rock till about 15 feet up where it gets slabby... At this point climb the slab up and left to easy yet loose ground heading in to the trees and a gully to the base of the chimney that marks the second pitch... Belay at the base of the chimney with gear...

Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge. Typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may not need to be backed up...

Pitch 3: The traditional way to finish the route is to corkscrew your way through the notch between the cliff and the spire then up the back side of the spire and on to the spectacular summit... If you go this way there is only one hard move which is easier if you are tall...

Pitch 3 variation: I like this variation way more than the original... From the top of the chimney belay, head up a system of cracks to an arete staying on the west side of the spire... Break right on to the beautiful and exposed face following cracks as you traverse right to a fun and wicked exposed move on to a final slab to the top...

Which ever way you finish, you can belay from bolts on top and rap from the ring/bolts on the west face just over the lip...

The summit is so cool... It's about the size of a picnic table with nothing but air around you on all sides...

Amazing...

Location

As you approach the eaglet this route starts on the left from a dirt ledge... You will see pins in a cracked face above...

Protection

Standard rack... Double ropes needed to get back to the ground in a single rappel...
Any comment on how good the protection is on this climb? Looks like a lot of fun. Sep 8, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
The gear is great! get after it! Sep 8, 2011
Awesome, think that's my Saturday plan :). Did you do any of the 5.8's over there (e.g. Route 66 or Salted Packed Pig Sack)? Wondering if either of those are good protected routes to try too if there is time. Sep 8, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i did salt pack... pretty well protected with small cams and nuts between the bolts but not a straight forward line, gear options are hard to see in places, and there is some loose rock, one very large flake the felt like it wanted to come off... Sep 9, 2011
Definitely a fun route and the gear was good. I thought the second pitch might have been a tad harder than the first, but still about 5.7. Ran into a little rope drag on second pitch. Sep 14, 2011
cwoodman
Lincoln, NH
cwoodman   Lincoln, NH
Another really good variation goes right at the top of pitch 2 for 60 ft. to the middle of the Long Wall and a belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a tiny ledge. Climb straight up a crack (5.7) to the beautiful, featured face above and keep going to another 2 bolt anchor at the top of the wall, passing a couple of bolts along the way. I put in the anchors and bolts in the mid 90's. Makes for a really nice extra pitch finish to a climb of the Eaglet. Sep 29, 2011
cwoodman
Lincoln, NH
cwoodman   Lincoln, NH
Sorry, I meant go left, not right, at the saddle at the top of P2. Sep 30, 2011
the best summit for the grade in NH. Nov 6, 2011
Joey Croft
Lyndonville, Vt
Joey Croft   Lyndonville, Vt
awesome climb, just did it today. be warned while pulling the last move to the pitch 2 belay. there is a very large loose rock directly above and touching the right face! May 20, 2012
Brian M. Smith
  5.7 PG13
Brian M. Smith  
  5.7 PG13
Awesome climb. Pay attention to the descent beta. Don't try to double rope rappel from the top of pitch 2. Too much friction. Stuck rope = mini epic. Bring bug spray, lots of water and sunscreen. Very remote. Jul 5, 2012
Michael Z.  
 
Yes! Bug spray, I always forget! Jul 5, 2012
So, there are three clear bolts on the various sides of the spire top portion - 1 on the back and 2 on the arete climb. There are also 2 bolts and 2 rap rings on the top, which was really reassuring to see.

We went up from the belay spot to the bolt on the Westerish side to help protect a 5.7ish move up to the big crack, then we went to the front of the spire and hand traversed across, grabbed the fin/arete along the top and reached over to clip the rap rings.

We sat on top for about an hour, it was so pretty.

Then we rap'ed to the grassy ledge and top roped the crack and arete for fun.

On the way down we backed up the tree rap with another cord to help keep is safe - left it there for the next adventurer!

Oh and the bugs were killer! I dont use bug sray, but if bugs bother you, bring it! Jul 6, 2012
Jeremy Malczyk
Southington, CT
Jeremy Malczyk   Southington, CT
This is a great climb , and an interesting formation ... but I question whether it truly is the tallest "freestanding" tower in the east. The drop to the notch behind it is really only ~45 feet, if that. It does jut out from the main wall more than anything else I have seen, but surely there are more "freestanding" formations around? The Man-in-the-Rock pillar in the NJ Palisades may beat it, and surely a sea stack in Maine or Canada tops this. Jun 3, 2014
Ming
  5.7
Ming  
  5.7
Pitch 3 variation is the way to go - easy traverse with phenomenal exposure for some memorable 5.5ish moves.

There is another 3rd pitch variation - from the bolt swing right to stay on the west side of the spire. Instead of traversing the horizontal go straight up the arete. Wonderful and airy but the climbing is really reasonable at around 5.8 (+? Not sure) or so. Fantastic way to finish the climb and it felt super exposed in that position as my left hand was grabbing the arete the whole time. The horizontal has an old pin in it that I backed up with a .5 and it felt bomber. The fall from the arete would be clean so go for it! Sep 8, 2014
Jamison Knowlton
Gloucester, MA
 
Jamison Knowlton   Gloucester, MA
 
Does anyone know if there is enough room for a bivy at the base of the spire/top of the second pitch? Looks like there would be enough room in the saddle. Thought it would be fun to climb the spire during the day, setup a top rope, campout and night climb. Enough for two sleeping bags would be plenty of room. Aug 5, 2015
It's closed till april... Got to let the eaglet raise it younglings... Jun 16, 2016
Can't seem to find any info on protection for this route anywhere other than this thread which is "great" and PG-13. I really want to climb this this year but I'm not sure how confident I am with PG-13 gear... Anyone have any input? I'd really like to avoid finding out I'm in over my head half way through the second pitch or something. Jul 22, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Is the pro above your head for every move ? No, but the difficulties are quite short and I'm almost positive some fixed pins are still in place.

I say more of a situational thing, it is a small summit with decent drops to either side and can be a bit unerving sometimes. If you can handle the Black Dike step around on WG, then the Eaglet is no problem. Jul 22, 2016
Jesse Laniak
Somerville MA
Jesse Laniak   Somerville MA
We rapped off the top with double ropes using the chains (not the rap rings on the face.) This seemed like a cleaner line as the rap rings would put you down through the somewhat chossy corner. It was fine this way although there was alot of friction. Also, there were chains about half way down the face. One could rap this way with a single 70 (probably a 60) no problem. It might be a semi-hanging stop but it beats lugging two ropes up! Oct 12, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Though the rings are somewhat above the chossy chimney, When I rap from the rings I go down to the ledge 40ft(?) down and then continue on the outside of the feature where it sounds like you went. This reduces that rope drag and I have never had a rope snag running it this way. Good to know that 2 raps with one rope is workable :) Oct 12, 2016
Ramona Filipi
Medford, mA
 
Ramona Filipi   Medford, mA
 
Reducing the approach info: Hike Greenleaf Trail for 10 minutes, turn left at the cairn and very obvious trail. At the boulder field, stay hard right all the way up. Jul 6, 2017
Curtis Tripp
Seattle, WA
 
Curtis Tripp   Seattle, WA
 
Another tip of the approach: You really aren't on the Greenleaf trail for all that long, keep an eye out for the cairn on the left side of the trail. If you pass a massive boulder on the left side of the trail, with a small alcove under its overhang, you have gone too far. Turn around and you should see the cairn and climber's trail on the right just a minute or two back down the trail.

Regarding the rap, like Lee suggested, we used the rings on the west face and went on the outside (climber's right) of the grassy ledge, there wasn't much friction and no snagging issues. Like Jesse Laniak mentioned, there are a pair of solid-looking bolts about halfway down the face this way. We did not use them but it certainly looks like two raps with a single 70 would do the job.

Lastly, do NOT forget bug spray. Jun 21, 2018

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