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Routes in The Eaglet
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Peregrine Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Predator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Gabriel |
| Page Views: | 27,103 total · 127/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jul 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: 
The Eaglet usually closes for a few months in the spring/early summer for nesting peregrine falcons. Currently (spring 2022) the closure is in place from April 1st to August 1st unless otherwise noted.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb past at least one pin on steep rock till about 15 feet up where it gets slabby... At this point climb the slab up and left to easy yet loose ground heading in to the trees and a gully to the base of the chimney that marks the second pitch... Belay at the base of the chimney with gear...
Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge. Typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may not need to be backed up...
Pitch 3: The traditional way to finish the route is to corkscrew your way through the notch between the cliff and the spire then up the back side of the spire and on to the spectacular summit... If you go this way there is only one hard move which is easier if you are tall...
Pitch 3 variation: I like this variation way more than the original... From the top of the chimney belay, head up a system of cracks to an arete staying on the west side of the spire... Break right on to the beautiful and exposed face following cracks as you traverse right to a fun and wicked exposed move on to a final slab to the top...
Which ever way you finish, you can belay from bolts on top and rap from the ring/bolts on the west face just over the lip...
The summit is so cool... It's about the size of a picnic table with nothing but air around you on all sides...
Amazing...
Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge. Typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may not need to be backed up...
Pitch 3: The traditional way to finish the route is to corkscrew your way through the notch between the cliff and the spire then up the back side of the spire and on to the spectacular summit... If you go this way there is only one hard move which is easier if you are tall...
Pitch 3 variation: I like this variation way more than the original... From the top of the chimney belay, head up a system of cracks to an arete staying on the west side of the spire... Break right on to the beautiful and exposed face following cracks as you traverse right to a fun and wicked exposed move on to a final slab to the top...
Which ever way you finish, you can belay from bolts on top and rap from the ring/bolts on the west face just over the lip...
The summit is so cool... It's about the size of a picnic table with nothing but air around you on all sides...
Amazing...
Photos
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