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Predator

5.11-, Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 9 votes
FA: Brad White, Dick Peterson, & Ian Cruickshank 1980
New Hampshire > WM: Franconia N… > Hounds Hump Rid… > Eaglet
Access Issue: Check for possible closure due to Peregrine Falcon nesting Details

Description

Predator is the striking south arete you see in all the photos of people standing on the summit of the Eaglet. Pitch one has some difficult and cryptic crux climbing, while pitch two is a more sustained exciting arete climb with great exposure. If you're swapping leads, neither person loses. Both pitches start off with a bit of suspect feeling rock, but the quality gets much better by the time you're clipping the bolts.

P1: Climb a spooky dike filled with 'suspect' blocks and flakes to a suspect pin. Climb a little left and put pro in a good pod in a thin crack, then climb up towards the bolts. A hard to read crux past the bulge leads into a stance at the base of a short finger crack that climbs more like an offwidth. Gain the grassy ledge and look left for a hanging two bolt belay.
P2: Do what you can to safely clip the bolt directly above you, I went left to an old bolt and then back to the right. Avoid loose junk around here. After you clip the first good bolt do a fun juggy boulder problem to a stance above at the base of a sweet looking hand crack (don't climb it, sorry). Lean way right and clip a bolt around the arete, then climb around to the right side of the arete and progress upwards to another stance. Go up the arete again, maneuvering around it when necessary. eventually you'll clip the last bolt and do some ridge crawling to summitsville.

Location

Located to the right of where peregrine arete and the west chimney start, look for bolts starting 20-25 feet off the ground. This is Predator.

Protection

A light single rack of finger sized cams, 12 Draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the start of the route - fun juggy moves up to the first piton
[Hide Photo] This is the start of the route - fun juggy moves up to the first piton
Andy following p2
[Hide Photo] Andy following p2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christopher Beargeron
Providence, RI
 
[Hide Comment] As of June 10, 2020 the (3rd?) hanger right before the first overhang is missing on p1. The bolt and nut are there, just no hanger. I ended up taking a nut and fastening it around the bolt and tightening down the nut and it seemed to work well enough..
Bring finger sized cams if you want but the only place youll really need them is the crack at the top of p1 but there are two mashed in cams you can clip with draws.
doing this on a particularly windy day like today was equally exciting and annoying because of the rope flying all around and you simply cant communicate with your belayer.

all in all its a one of a kind route with some great climbing and felt pretty easy for the grade. I'd recomend it to anyone so long as it isnt windy. Jun 10, 2020
Travis OC
Orford, NH
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This climb is amazing, and definitely doesn't get as much traffic as it should. The movement and positioning make it a full 4 stars anywhere IMO. The only cams you need are a two 0.3's, and one 0.4 for the first pitch, I believe the climb in its entirety was recently re-bolted as all bolts are present and friggin minty new. The second pitch you could place an optional 0.2 to back-up a rather good looking piton, but otherwise the 2nd pitch is all bolt protected. This would make an impressive on-sight as the beta and general direction of the climb was not obvious to me or my partner, but once you have the beta it's very doable and the movement is awesome. I thought to grading was right on: first pitch 11-, 2nd 5.10d. Jun 28, 2020
Sean M
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] this climb is a bit funky, but has great exposure. I think the loose rock at the start really took away from the experience.

P1: You climb about 15 feet of blocks at maybe 5.10 that feel like they could rip at any minute, to reach a pin. Easy traverse to get something in the 0.3 range before starting up the first crux. This one is pretty sequency, with non-obvious holds, and *very* reachy. I think 5.11- is fair for myself (5'10''), but my partner found it super annoying to follow. After getting past the crux its a scary/annoying ledge to-out to a lichen-covered slab. Then the next crux is a super awkward corner finger crack that I ended up just laybacking. When I climbed it there were 3 (three!) fixed cams in the ~7 foot corner system, attesting to how uncomfortable it is, even though not that challenging. Topping out this corner system is another annoying lichen-covered slab. Overall this pitch gets 5.awkward and probably PG for the ankle-breaking you'll suffer if you pull off a block before clipping the pin.

P2: This was definitely better quality rock. Partner led this one. maybe the bolt placement has changed since the original description, but clipping the first bolt didn't seem sketchy at all, even skipping the old bold to the left. The climb is a wander-y mix of face/arete/slab moves, almost all bolt protected, though you should probably bring a couple finger-sized pieces for peace of mind.

Overall worth doing if you are up at the area, but not a real destination climb. Jul 21, 2020
Eli Buzzell
Plymouth, NH
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Last I checked the hanger had been replaced. Jul 31, 2020
BigRed11
New England
[Hide Comment] Confirmed no missing hangers and only a couple of finger-sized cams needed for P1. Great movement, safe gear after the first 15 ft, and good rests between distinct cruxes. First pin on p1 is laughable but the climbing is secure. Aug 5, 2020