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Early Access
Routes in Der Freischutz
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Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Fat Elvis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Ich Bin Ein Berliner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9732, -105.28888 |
| FA: | FKFA: T. Bubb, K Arhendt, Oct. 7, 2017 |
| Page Views: | 911 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted
Details
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
The name of this variation is given with a double entendre. As a variation of Fat Elvis, which mentions the circumstances of his death, it seemed fitting. The second was the thoughts on the lead, runout quite a way, and in fragile health (torn rotator cuff, torn labrum, waiting to determine if surgery was required and not using the right arm). It came to mind that while things can look clean and tough, sometimes they are actually fragile, and shatter if dropped. In a way, this had already happened to me. I tore a shoulder catching a frisbee (eye roll).
Climb as for Fat Elvis. Off of the ledge at mid-height, pull up past the first bolt, and then look directly up at what seems to be a direct and obvious line. Climb this directly to the top through a slight bulge up high to reach the anchors from the right side. The holds are mostly secure but a bit lichenous. From the point of divergence, you could opt to move up and left to clip the second bolt with an extended sling then come back down and right before climbing straight up as well with a little more peace of mind if that is your thing, but it is not really necessary.
In any case, whilst lead with no gear at the time, it would probably take a few stoppers and certainly a sling or two on a chickenhead.
The route is actually easier than the bolted line to the left, IMO, and might be 5.9 or 5.9-. I am not sure, really.
Location
This route climbs up directly to the top, nearly on a plumb line from the first bold above the ledge of Fat Elvis.
Protection
All but the last 3 bolts of Fat Elvis. A set of stoppers and a few slings on chickenheads could probably protect the 30' runout up top, but it was done sans gear when we did it.
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