Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Neil Monteith
Page Views: 357 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 7, 2017
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You & This Route


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Description

Mega!

This more recent addition to the Taipan Wall connects the lower bits (and crux) of The Invisible Fist into the unbelievable third pitch of World Party - the Scoop Pitch! It is a huge linkup that will punish impatience or lapses in concentration and reward the climber who is willing to take his or her time (and who has lots of friends from whom to borrow 120 cm slings and rollers).

Begin above the boulder used to access the belay ledge (thankfully a very comfy belay) and climb Invisible Fist through the crux* and continue on to straddle the namesake rest. When your forearms have recovered or your groin grows tender (whichever comes first), hang a very long sling (120 cm) on the next bolt and work out right (as per IF) - but instead of moving back left again, continue right past a connector bolt (sling) via pumpy traversing and stretch up to clip the P2 anchor of World Party (again, long sling). A few more hard moves lead to some cramped but good rests - including an amazing sit down rest facing out from the wall if you can find it. From this airy perch execute a strenuous sequence to gain the wild Scoop Pitch of World Party... This pitch calls to every climber: Hey you! Yeah, you! Get up here!

The scoop is a crazy feature that carves it's way up one of Taipan's overhanging headwalls (which is otherwise 5.13-5.14 territory) at a relatively moderate grade. Stemming, palming, body tension are the name of the game - as are run outs: Only four bolts (and an optional RP at the top) protect 50+ feet of climbing. Again, be careful how you runner your gear here or pay the price! If you can keep it together for a final challenging sequence near the top of the scoop, you'll be rewarded with a jug to clip the anchor of one of the best pitches on the Taipan Wall.

Lower twice with an 80m rope (I think a 70 would work too): First to the anchor below the Scoop Pitch, then rethread and lower again.

(*) Careful here... As one of the easier routes on the wall, IF is very popular but the crux is the scene of frequent bad falls - and injuries - due to a short run out above a ledge followed by a very difficult clip mid-crux.

Protection

As many 60 cm and 120 cm slings and DMM Revolvers as you can round up. Caffeine for belayer.

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