Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 563 total · 22/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 5, 2017
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You & This Route


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Description

This amazing route is the most accessible (and thusly most popular) route on the Taipan Wall. Unfortunately, most will only do the first pitch (give yourself 25) for the sake of convenience, but the second pitch (you've earned the 26) is just as good with an exciting dyno and techy moves up an exposed arete to the top of the wall.

Begin at the far right end of the belay ledge (anchoring your belayer is a good idea) and clip bolts up steep, juggy rock interspersed with good rests. An awkward and committing move leads out to the arete, which is shortly thereafter followed by the crux (12a). A few more powerful sequences lead up and left to an anchor in an amazing belay alcove. Most lower from here, but it is possible to continue climbing into the second pitch if you've runnered your gear well (though perhaps more prudent to bring your belayer up to this airy perch with you).

The second pitch begins with the true crux (12b) - a toss or massive span to a huge jug. Above this lie three more bolts of thin, pumpy climbing (and a devious sequence) up a wildly exposed arete. An anchor at the top of the wall will allow you to lower back to the belay alcove and then again to the ground.

Protection

A #2 and 0.5 Camalot are useful for the first pitch and a few medium/large stoppers are useful for protection between the first and second bolts of the second pitch.

Photos