Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: HB
Page Views: 1,032 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 5, 2017
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Description Suggest change

Anaconda is a varied and demanding route that guns for the shallow water groove on the upper headwall immediately right of the more obvious water groove of World Party.

Begin on the ledge system (belayer can stay on the ground below if you wish) by climbing up a wide crack/layback (one bolt protects) to a horizontal (#3 Camalot). Slither leftwards along this horizontal (fun!) until you can mantle up onto your feet and continue to some good rests and an intermediate anchor. Belay or link (I preferred the latter, but use long slings and back clean or you will pay the price).

From here, climb increasingly steep rock through a notorious and devious crux utilizing a distinctive hold known as the "slug" or "cigar". This palm-up pinch may feel impossible to control in smarmy conditions, but precise body position can go a long ways towards compensating for weakness... or at least I got away with it. This crux begins a stretch of pumpy, difficult climbing through steep terrain that eventually finishes with a run out to a good rest (whew!) below a final massive roof. This roof serves as the gateway to the sick upper headwall; Load it up with a finger-sized cam (0.5 Camalot) and have a medium/large stopper on hand for the lip (optional), cut loose to a massive jug, and pull up - limbs flailing like a suffocating rabbit - into the shallow scoop system in the headwall. Climb more easily up this to a final crimpy sequence to gain an anchor at the top of the wall.

Give yourself a big hug if you made it through this epic journey and are still breathing!

Protection Suggest change

A #3 Camalot, a 0.5 Camalot, a few medium wires, and many draws and long slings for the many bolts. If your belayer remains on the ledge and you have a long rope (70m) you can lower twice (using the intermediate anchor) - watch your ends.

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