Elevation: 1,702 ft
GPS: -37.134, 142.438 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,674 total · 358/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 12, 2007
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Description

The Grampians National Park, (also known by its Aboriginal name Gariwerd) is a long mountain range that stretches through Victoria about 250 km north of Melbourne. The largest centrally located town is that of Halls Gap, but Horsham is also near the northern reaches of the range. Mount Arapiles sits alone like the coccyx of the spine of mountains, but those who have visited the Mount will find a significantly different climbing experience in the Gramps.

The rock there is sandstone, but it is often of a softer variety than that of Arapiles. However, there are bullet-hard swaths of rock throughout the range that offer superb climbing. These areas are often spread out, and in extreme cases there are singular climbs that require completely independant approaches. The Gramps reward those who are willing to explore, however, and my experiences there have left indelible marks in my memories.

Because of its geographics, a central camp at Mount Arapiles, Mount Stapylton, or near Bundaleer & Rosea will serve a visiting climber well. There is much ongoing route development and tons of potential for new routes. An equal mix of sport and trad routes grace the often steep walls and caves that are common in the area.

Rest days can be spent hiking and exploring hidden waterfalls and Aboriginal artwork.

Getting There

Approaches vary significantly depending on the region to be visited, but the park lies north of Melbourne.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Grampians

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Debutante
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Holy Batmania
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Commisioner Gordon
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 8
Blimp
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Return to Gariwerd
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Chain of Fools
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Dial-a-Lama
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Mr Joshua
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 3
Fisting Party
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Serpentine
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Debutante Mt Rosea
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Holy Batmania Cave & the Wave > Wave
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Commisioner Gordon Cave & the Wave > Wave
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blimp Bundaleer
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Return to Gariwerd Camp of the Emu's Foo…
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Chain of Fools [CLOSED] The Gallery
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dial-a-Lama Mt Stapylton > Mt Stapylton Am… > Spurt
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Mr Joshua Mt Stapylton > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches
Fisting Party Mt Stapylton > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Serpentine Mt Stapylton > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Grampians »

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