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Elevation: 1,792 ft 546 m
GPS: -37.17988, 144.3128
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Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 28, 2020
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Description Suggest change

Victoria and New South Wales are the most populous states (and have the largest cities, Sydney and Melbourne, respectively) in Australia. They are also the homes of the most developed climbing areas on the continent. Whereas NSW is most famous for the Blue Mountains and its huge concentration of sport climbing, Victoria has Mount Arapiles, the Grampians, and Mount Buffalo - all of which are known for their trad climbing. These are all great areas, but Arapiles in particular is considered by some to be the best crag in the world and the Grampians (a sprawling range of individual crags) is an international destination itself. Fires and access issues have plagued the Grampians over the years, so make sure to check the current state of affairs before heading there.

Getting There Suggest change

Regardless of where you might climb, Melbourne is a large, modern city with an international airport and will most likely be a staging point for a trip to any of Victoria's climbing areas. There is some climbing around the city, but expect a 4-hour drive or so to the best the state has to offer. Public transport can get you to Arapiles and the Grampians, and Arapiles is a great place to set up camp for extended periods and can be enjoyed without a vehicle. Exploring the Grampians to its fullest requires a vehicle.

302 Total Climbs

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Location: Victoria Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Victoria

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 17
● Tiptoe Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Pinnacle Face
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 28
● Agamemnon
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
● The Bard
Trad 5 pitches
Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bard Buttress
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 33
● Muldoon
Trad 2 pitches
Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
● Watchtower Crack
Trad 4 pitches
Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Watchtower Faces
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 17
● Missing Link
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
● Scorpion
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
● Kachoong
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Thunder Crack
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
● A Taste of Honey
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 12
● Auto Da Fe
Trad 2 pitches
Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Watchtower Faces
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
● Scorpion Corner
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 15
● Orestes
Trad
Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
● Mr Joshua
Trad 2 pitches
Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
● Serpentine
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Tiptoe Ridge Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Pinnacle Face
 17
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 4 pitches
● Agamemnon Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
 28
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
● The Bard Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bard Buttress
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
● Muldoon Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Watchtower Crack Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Watchtower Faces
 29
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● Missing Link Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
● Scorpion Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Kachoong Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Thunder Crack Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● A Taste of Honey Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Auto Da Fe Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Watchtower Faces
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad 2 pitches
● Scorpion Corner Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
● Orestes Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
● Mr Joshua Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches
● Serpentine Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Victoria »

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Brunley bouldering walls in Melbourne. These bouldering walls are under a highway overpass and free to the public.
Brunley bouldering walls in Melbourne. These b…
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