Elevation: 1,792 ft
GPS: -37.18, 144.313 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,158 total · 3,660/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 28, 2020
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Description

Victoria and New South Wales are the most populous states (and have the largest cities, Sydney and Melbourne, respectively) in Australia. They are also the homes of the most developed climbing areas on the continent. Whereas NSW is most famous for the Blue Mountains and its huge concentration of sport climbing, Victoria has Mount Arapiles, the Grampians, and Mount Buffalo - all of which are known for their trad climbing. These are all great areas, but Arapiles in particular is considered by some to be the best crag in the world and the Grampians (a sprawling range of individual crags) is an international destination itself. Fires and access issues have plagued the Grampians over the years, so make sure to check the current state of affairs before heading there.

Getting There

Regardless of where you might climb, Melbourne is a large, modern city with an international airport and will most likely be a staging point for a trip to any of Victoria's climbing areas. There is some climbing around the city, but expect a 4-hour drive or so to the best the state has to offer. Public transport can get you to Arapiles and the Grampians, and Arapiles is a great place to set up camp for extended periods and can be enjoyed without a vehicle. Exploring the Grampians to its fullest requires a vehicle.

240 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Victoria

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 20
Agamemnon
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 24
The Bard
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 26
Muldoon
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Watchtower Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Scorpion
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
Kachoong
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Thunder Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 8
Blimp
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
A Taste of Honey
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 12
Auto Da Fe
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 14
Orestes
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Mr Joshua
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Archimedes’ Principal
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 3
Fisting Party
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Serpentine
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Agamemnon Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
 20
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
The Bard Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bard Buttress
 24
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Muldoon Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Watchtower Crack Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Watchtower Faces
 26
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Scorpion Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Kachoong Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Thunder Crack Mt Arapiles > (4) Bluffs > Bluffs
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Blimp Grampians > Bundaleer
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
A Taste of Honey Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Auto Da Fe Mt Arapiles > (7) Watchtower… > Watchtower Faces
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad 2 pitches
Orestes Mt Arapiles > (1) Southern Crags > Atridae
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Mr Joshua Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches
Archimedes’ Principal Grampians > Camp of the Emu's Foo…
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Fisting Party Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Serpentine Grampians > … > Mt Stapylton Am… > Taipan Wall
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
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