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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Benjamin Faiveley (8/5/2017)
Page Views: 172 total · 27/month
Shared By: Benj84 on Aug 18, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Start up the broken corner of solid gold, traverse right over the golden roof with the horizontal crack (1 bolt), if you do place any gear prior to that bolt, throw some pretty big runners on it, I used 2 pieces with 120cm runners.
Once you're past the golden roof lead up the corner to the nook beneath the second roof, place all the gear you could ever possibly want in the L crack, enjoy the no hands rest, channel your spirit animal and then fire the enigmatic roof.

Location

starts same as solid gold, finishes on the roof to the left of oracle.

Protection

nothing bigger than a #1 C4, I used (and recommend bringing) double yellow metolius cams

Photos

Healyje
PDX
  5.12- PG13
Healyje   PDX
  5.12- PG13
This was a long-envisioned, but intermittent, effort started in 2008 by myself and Shane Polizzano and then dabbled on in the intervening years until Benjamin stuck it this year.

Anchor is just to the left (west) of the Oracle / Wushu anchor. Aug 22, 2017
Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
This route was both the brain-child of, and result of a lot of work from Joseph Healy Aug 18, 2017

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