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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Benjamin Faiveley (8/5/2017)
Page Views: 278 total · 25/month
Shared By: Benj84 on Aug 18, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start up the broken corner of solid gold, traverse right over the golden roof with the horizontal crack (1 bolt), if you do place any gear prior to that bolt, throw some pretty big runners on it, I used 2 pieces with 120cm runners.
Once you're past the golden roof lead up the corner to the nook beneath the second roof, place all the gear you could ever possibly want in the L crack, enjoy the no hands rest, channel your spirit animal and then fire the enigmatic roof.

Location

starts same as solid gold, finishes on the roof to the left of oracle.

Protection

nothing bigger than a #1 C4, I used (and recommend bringing) double yellow metolius cams

Photos

Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
This route was both the brain-child of, and result of a lot of work from Joseph Healy Aug 18, 2017
Healyje
PDX
  5.12- PG13
Healyje   PDX
  5.12- PG13
This was a long-envisioned, but intermittent effort started in 2008 by myself and Shane Polizzano and then only occasionally dabbled on in the intervening years until revisiting it this again this year with Benjamin and him finally sticking it as his first ever FA. The route's name is derived from an oblique exclamation made by our friend Marco Fedrizzi related to it being the last unclimbed roof out there - i.e. once Benjamin and I reluctantly decided the route required the one bolt it now sports, Marco cried out:

"Don't do it! Don't bolt the last buffalo!"

Benjamin's ultimate reply was "it would have remained the eternal[ly unclimbed] buffalo without the bolt."

Early attempts at the route by Shane and myself were done by leading the Oracle roof and immediately traversing left then right up to this roof which is an easier, but still, quite exciting option if one is so inclined. The route's [fixed] anchor is just to the left (west) of the Oracle / Wushu anchor. Aug 22, 2017
Billcoe  
Good photo Joe, man some of those blocks look "Interesting" in the video and pictures. Apr 7, 2018
Healyje
PDX
  5.12- PG13
Healyje   PDX
  5.12- PG13
Bill, thanks. Everything on the route is way solid, even the initial moves out the gold wall. It's the stuff to the left of the roof - high up on the right side of Solid Gold - that is sketch. We looked at all that stuff again last summer and would strongly advise against messing with any of it (however tempting). Apr 8, 2018

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