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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke, Kyle Silverman 8/18/08
Page Views: 178 total, 2/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This 5 star joy to climb classic is like a well-put together staircase. A bit of a squeeze job on the natural line @ just 3 feet to the right of 2trad4U. Using face holds interspersed with the crack, climb the obvious and easy shallow dihedral straight up to the top. Each step seems to be where you want it with the left hand (roof) variation having an interesting undercling and face moves. The easier, right hand variation heads to the right @ 5 feet below the crux of the left hand variation about 1/2 way up the route. Just dance to the right and up small ledges before rejoining the route. Clip the black sling on the medium fir growing on the route, then finish straight up the remining 20 feet to the rappel point which is off of the large fir tree on the very top.

Protection

Medium and large wired stoppers with a few cams to 1-1/2". include a green alien or yellow TCU as well. A set of Hybrid Aliens, although not necessary, will place very well.

Photos

Ryan Orr
Portland, OR
  5.8
Ryan Orr   Portland, OR
  5.8
Not sure why the PRC guidebook calls this a 5-star climb. Nothing about it seemed
Classic to me. In fact, I thought I was on a different route the entire time until confirming I was in the right spot from the beta pictures on here. I'd skip this one. May 7, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.7
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.7
So, did this yesterday (in tennis shoes), and it felt around 5.7, easily protected. If you long sling the gear, there is very little rope drag. Aug 15, 2015