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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Joseph Healy, Hanmi Hubbard 6/2008
Page Views: 909 total, 10/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Navigates straight up the middle of the Gold Wall from the obvious “butt cheek” bouldering start on up the wall and finishes through two roofs. Anchor can be reached via a short traverse right from the Day of Atonement anchor. Climb involves a move or two on a less than robust block in the middle of the wall so please tread lightly on it. FA recently added a bolt to the route to eliminate two ball nut placements.

Protection

Gear to 4"

Photos

Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Ok, so maybe some commentary on this line is in order. First, it is a dead serious lead, no doubt about it. I took a fall on it at the top crux on my first attempt at the FA, I got it the second try a bit later after the rattle wore off.

The top crux is highly technical and those moves, while common to climbing steep Southern sandstone walls and roofs where my early climbing happened, aren't as commonly encountered / used out West here. So, while intuitive for folks from that region, they may not be as readily apparent or obvious for a lot of folks.

As for the protection, the route is a three-part deal - lower, middle and top. The start is protectable with small gear where it matters, but I don't bother and just treat the first third as a highball boulder problem. That's not in any way necessary, but if such a prospect is entirely too unsettling or you don't like doing the start with the available pro then you're not going to like things higher up on the route.

The climbing and pro on the middle of the route is somewhat odd and catch as catch-can but not hard and leads you up to a good rest. I will give the pro beta for there: you'll want to arrive there with HB/DMM Alloy offsets #7 & #8 on a single draw and they go into the slot in front of your face there one on top of the other.

Leaving the rest you are committing to the top third of the route and it is committing. Off the rest a bit there is an bolt taking the place of the two #2 ballnuts I used on the FA. You then cross up and over a smaller half-roundish roof to a quasi-rest if you can establish it and where you can get in the final two pieces of the route - one to the left and one straight up in the crack above you. Be aware which side of the placement the outside cam lobes go on counts in both these placements. I've done the route with both BD and Metolius cams and after insuring they are as well-placed as possible I've always been good with them even if they aren't absolutely 'perfect' placements. With Totems they are both bomb placements but still require close attention to what you are doing.

All that said, and while each and every time I lead the route it's a serious endeavor, I have led it over a hundred times in the past nine years since putting it up and have led it a half-dozen times this year alone. Don't let the rep / comments completely put you off if you are a competent, skilled and serious leader.

And sure, it might be my FA, but I gotta say I love this route regardless. It, The Oracle (formerly also a serious endeavor), Wushu, and of course that bitch Tunnel Vision - they all act as benchmarks in their own way for where I'm at coming back each year and appreciate them all as real warm ups for Beacon.

Also, it's like twelve feet of 5.2 climbing to traverse from the Atonement anchor to the Hollow Victory anchor if you want to give it a spin on TR. Jun 29, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
Top roped this. Leading would be crazy! Definitely earns an R rating. Jun 15, 2016
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Just a note to say the bolt was added immediately after the FA rather than 'recently' (replacing a double #2 ballnut placement).

## That bolt, however, in no way changes the seriousness or R rating of the route. ## Nov 28, 2015