Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Coe and Jim Opdycke 4/08
Page Views: 110 total, 1/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is located just right of the 3 obvious bolts of LONESOME WINNER.

Start up left of the main crack line and then traverse 5' right below a small roof. An optional direct start can be protected from the ground with a small nut and "ups" the grade a notch or two. Regardless how you get started, follow the main crack feature through its various contortions to a large flake. Move up and slightly right pulling on good holds past the flake and into a dihedral groove. Continue up the groove and directly up to the top anchors.

The original line continued to the top of the cliff and used a tree belay and a walk off.

Protection

Microcams .4-.75"
Cams .5-1.25"
1 set of nuts

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10b
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10b
Enjoyable route, especially the 2nd half. I used cams from .1-3" Jun 15, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10a
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10a
Today a set of top anchors and rap rings was added to the route. No more weird traverse to adjacent route's anchors to get down. I have jumped on the bigger blocks and nothing is moving so I'd say it is good to go. We also did a bunch of gardening and pruning as well.

You are welcome! Jun 15, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10a
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10a
The first piece of pro is currently 20' up. The rock on the way up to that piece can be somewhat fragile as I experienced a foot hold that unexpectedly broke off. I managed to catch myself with one hand and luckily avoided a ground fall.

The climbing up to the crux is about 5.9 and we climbed with the following rack as this route has plenty of small placements.

Camalot/X4 Sizes
One each from 0.2 - 1.0, 4.0
1 Set of Nuts

The direct start is a good boulder problem and with a solid small nut placement that can be made from the ground (if you are tall enough) you can keep yourself off the ground.
May 25, 2015