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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Jon Stewart, Ryan Sund Summer 07
Page Views: 201 total · 2/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climb past 4 bolts to reach a thin crack that starts below a roof. Follow the crack to the right side of the roof and continue to the 2 bolt anchors using small cams to protect this section.

Protection

small cams, bolts.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Got a 0 Metolius stuck just before the crux. Anybody who can get it out is welcome to it.

Redpoint note: it's harder than any other 10a at the crag, but maybe not as hard as Oracle. Apr 9, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10a/b
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10a/b
Great route. Upper half is super fun and clean. I used a .75, C3 2, and a C3 0. More thin gear could be placed as well if you wanted. Jun 16, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10b
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10b
This route protects well with cams from BD sizes 0.1-0.5 and doubles in the smaller 0.1s and 0.2s. Also used an offset nut.

Very fun upper section that climbs thru the right side of the roof and uses a sweet thin crack to take you to the anchors. May 7, 2015