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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: FFA Bryan Smith, Jason Frick, Kevin Evanson 5/4/08. FA of upper dihedral Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson 1985
Page Views: 583 total, 7/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start up shattered left-facing corner, then traverse left to first bolt. Pass two more bolts to gain ledge system, step up and left on easy terrain, then climb the initially overhanging right-facing dihedral until possible to traverse right to anchor.

Protection

Gear to 3” and bolts.

Photos

Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
"The dihedral above the ledge was terribly dirty. We cleaned what we could, but more traffic is needed on this thing."

I typically clean the ledge and the dihedral a couple of times early every year, but missed it that year and this due to pneumonia and not being able to deal with the dust. But hey, it's not that big a deal to thoroughly clean both out. I similarly clean the exit moves on Hollow Victory numerous times in the spring. And it's the same deal at Beacon, if everyone would just pick a column or two to clean at the start of the season it wouldn't be a matter of 'traffic', but rather of intent and contribution. Apr 24, 2016
bryans
 
bryans  
 
Topher, I place a 2 inch cam on a long sling in the crack to the right. It would keep you off the deck if you fell before the first bolt. Jul 6, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10d
I did the direct start as well and it climbs nice but the first bolt is fairly high, would be nice to have another to protect a bad fall. The upper section of course was dirty but hey its DropZone. Jun 26, 2015
bryans
 
bryans  
 
glad you liked the direct start. it's just a huge fall if you don't make the first bolt, so i figured most people would plug gear out right, then traverse in. and yes, the upper dihedral gets seasonal runoff and therefore dirty. i'm guessing you are the first one on it this year. it will be fine once cleaned - and to me, that's the 10d part of the route. we figured the bolted section was a stout 10c. Jul 18, 2011
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10c
I felt the direct start adds to the challenge and quality of the bottom part of this route. No need to traverse in from the broken corner. The dihedral above the ledge was terribly dirty. We cleaned what we could, but more traffic is needed on this thing. Jun 27, 2011
bryans
 
bryans  
 
This route starts with three bolts on a steep east-facing 30 foot wall that is just left of the obviously largest and steepest wall at the crag (i.e. "main cliff").

To the right of "Naughty and Nice" (in order) are "Lion of Judah" which shares the first 15 with this route, "Day of Atonement," and "Hollow Victories" which has the lone bolt on the "main cliff". To the left are "Squeeze Play" a toprope problem arete, "Tunnel Vision" which starts with gear in the dark dihedral, and "The Darkhorse" which starts with 2 bolts on a steep face.

These are some of the cleanest and steepest routes here. Aug 31, 2010