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Routes in (6) Main Cliff

2Trad4U T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Day of Atonement T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Buffalo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak Freely T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Victory T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lonesome Winner, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Naughty and Nice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oracle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solid Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urbaby's Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wushu Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson 1985, FA complete extension to the top Joseph Healy 6/08
Page Views: 283 total · 3/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

First route here! Jim and Mike climbed the beautiful hand crack to the ledge where they lowered off a piton equalized with a tree (now gone). Ryan Sund pushed the route further up the face, split by a small seam and drilled an anchor. Joseph Healy pushed the route to the top of the cliff past the crux and moved the anchor to the top. Start up the hand crack and continue straight up until gaining the ledge with the piton. From there head up the thin crack and then left and up the right facing dihedral and wide slot to the anchor.

Protection

Gear to 3” - include some small stuff like Ballnuts or a 0 Metolius if doing the straight up variation to top out.

Photos

Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10a
Led this thing yesterday. Probably my favorite route at Farside thus far. The face towards the top is great, and the direct finish, although dirty, is pretty challenging as well. I don't think particularly small gear is needed (or the PG rating). Jun 27, 2011
Chris-Bailey
Olympia, WA
  5.10b
Chris-Bailey   Olympia, WA
  5.10b
Great line, favorite of the climbs I've done here so far. The direct finish is challenging, but takes gear okay and has some really fun movements on it. Climbed in with a rack of .3-2 C4 and a single set of nuts. Never felt unsafe, but small cams definitely would have made it more secure. Sep 9, 2014
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
A #4 ballnut is bomb in the thin crack. Apr 24, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10
Sweet first 2/3. Crux is a bit awkward and tricky. Not real well protected. But, the thin nut held the fall well! Jun 15, 2016
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
I would more describe the cruxes on both Atonement and Hollow Victory more as technical with limited solution sequences - both cruxes are quite elegant in terms of movement, unless you deviate from those specific technical sequences, in which case they would become both harder and somewhat awkward. May 11, 2017

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