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Early Access
Routes in 2. Blazing Saddles
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11 Gallon Hat TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Agents of Entropy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Bart S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bullwhip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Campfire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Candygram for Mongo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doc's Holiday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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For the Green Penguin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lili Von Shtupp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Mongo Like Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Penstemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waco Kid, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 39.50346, -105.37002 |
| FA: | Prehmus/Launer |
| Page Views: | 2,634 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Prehmus on Jul 4, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closure: Fire Mitigation
Details
Per: Zach Taylor #656, Park Manager, Staunton State Park
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is under way:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Starting September 30, 2025 through October 31 the following crags will be closed 7 days a week (per ryan laird) (not Monday through Friday) while forest fire mitigation work is under way:
- Dines Cliff
- Reynolds Wall
- The Raven
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Access Issue: Closure Notice - 4/9/22
Details
The area will be closed 4/9/22 to fix the trail and belay pads.
Description
Start in the left corner of the alcove. Follow Bullwhip's sharp crack past the loose, rectangular block. It has a scary range of motion, but the crowbar could not remove it. At the top of the alcove, find the invisible bucket to move right under the little tree.
Location
It is on the left side of the alcove with Doc's Holiday & Penstemon. You can get to the anchor for a TR from Doc's Holiday.
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