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5.8, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 37 votes
FA: Prehmus/Launer
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Dines Cliff > 2. Blazing Saddles
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details


Start in the left corner of the alcove. Follow Bullwhip's sharp crack past the loose, rectangular block. It has a scary range of motion, but the crowbar could not remove it. At the top of the alcove, find the invisible bucket to move right under the little tree.


It is on the left side of the alcove with Doc's Holiday & Penstemon. You can get to the anchor for a TR from Doc's Holiday.


A standard rack, there are sparse placements for the first ~10 feet (5.5), then pro anywhere you want in the crack. It has a two bolt/chain anchor. Please avoid slinging the tree near the top: there is a usable crack just behind it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bullwhip is the crack left of the dark water streak in the corner.
[Hide Photo] Bullwhip is the crack left of the dark water streak in the corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Ingraham
[Hide Comment] Looks pretty ugly but climbs really well. Should clean up with some traffic. Good finger-sized gear. Aug 21, 2017
Jake Web
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Felt harder than 5.7, leading things can be scary sometime, maybe I was just a little freaked out 'cause there was some loose rock. Oct 31, 2017
Greg Davis
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Dirty. Needs more cleaning. Apr 28, 2019
Tan B
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Climbs a lot better than it looks. Luckily, there are great stances for plugging gear all over. Offset nuts were quite helpful here. Jul 5, 2019
Nick Hill
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route felt solid to me.. The loose block in the picture is no longer there. The rock around the cracks felt very solid, and there were plenty of features on both faces for stemming/handholds. Gear placements were everywhere. Nov 9, 2019
Caleb Gruber
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Super fun corner climb with some stemming, hand jamming, lots of gear options, and glory tree to finish. Oct 31, 2020