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Routes in Dines Cliff

11 Gallon Hat TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Bart S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bullwhip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Campfire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Candygram for Mongo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Doc's Holiday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
For the Green Penguin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mongo Like Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Penstemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Prehmus & Launer
Page Views: 400 total · 13/month
Shared By: Alan Prehmus on Jun 25, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

The original start was left of the corner: up, then diagonally right to where the corner goes vertical. This start avoided a bush that is no longer there. It's harder than the direct start up the open book to the corner. Follow the crack to the overhang. Swing right and finish in the corner above the overhang.

Location

This route is several hundred feed left (West) of the old fence line, and ~30 feet left of For the Green Penguin.

Descend using the two bolt rap anchor.

Protection

Standard rack. There are two glue-in Wave bolts at the top as an anchor. The only solid looking natural anchor is the big tree 30 ft. above/beyond the lip.

Photos

Jake Web
  5.8-
Jake Web  
  5.8-
This was much easier than the other climbs here. If you've been crack climbing in the Voo, or anywhere else really, you'll cruise this. In addition to nice hand jams and offwidth moves, it also has solid face holds to add variety and rest/work different muscles. Oct 31, 2017
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
I liked this route until I did Black Bart and looked at the stacked blocks near the top from the side. It reminds me of some formations in Eldorado Canyon that look like they are about to fall apart. Jul 16, 2017
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
Did not like those big blocks through the crux. I also felt the seam to right of the blocks did not have reliable rock for protection. Mongo like crack just to the right looks like a much better option. Mar 13, 2017
Mongo is a very nice climb now, and after cleaning, there are interesting routes immediately right of Mongo, well-protected. Note some rotten rock below the book, watch out below! Aug 3, 2015