Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Prehmus & Launer
Page Views: 1,192 total · 20/month
Shared By: Alan Prehmus on Jun 25, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

From the top of the V-slot, climb the slab to the base of the crack/corner. The first 25 feet of the corner is fun 5.8 crack/corner climbing. The grade drops a bit closer to the roof.

At the roof, join Mongo Likes Crack, pull the 10c thin moves up into the hanging dihedral, and continue to the anchors.

A 10d bolted roof finish is also possible 4 feet left of corner. There is a separate anchor for this variation.

Location

This route is 50 yards up/left/West of where the Dines Cliff trail first reaches the cliff. It's a major, left-facing corner with a 6 foot roof, 70 feet.
Black Bart's wave bolts mark the next climb west from the Mongos.

Descend using the two bolt rap anchor.

Protection

A standard rack. The crux (shared with Mongo Likes Crack) can be protected with small gear (down to less than 1/2 inch). There are two glue-in Wave bolts at the top as an anchor. The only solid looking natural anchor is the big tree 30 feet above/beyond the lip.

Photos