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Routes in Dines Cliff

11 Gallon Hat TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Bart S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bullwhip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Campfire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Candygram for Mongo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Doc's Holiday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
For the Green Penguin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mattrimoney T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mongo Like Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Penstemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
That’s My Bush T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Underklingon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: Alan Prehmus, Sylvia Prehmus
Page Views: 504 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sylvia on Jun 25, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Start in the obvious chimney, and climb up the twenty foot ledge directly above. Follow the main crack most of the way up to the evergreen. The crack can be wet if there has been recent rain. The hand jam crack narrows as you go up to a second much smaller ledge. There are some small bushes and lots of lichen. Pull over the top with some moderate buckets and good footing, and watch the loose boulders near the tree. Anchor/ rap on the large tree right at the top. A sixty meter rope should reach for rap. WATCH FOR LOOSE ROCKS.

Location

From the fence line, follow the cliff left to the first obvious corner with the large chimney.

Protection

All trad gear. It protects easily with a standard rack.

Photos

Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
The double rope anchor around the tree at the top was eaten by nylon-loving rodents. One piece was completely severed and carried 150 ft away. The other had half of the double fisherman knot removed with fluff sticking through. It still looked knotted but pulled apart with ~10 lbs. of force.

If you find anything left around the tree, check it carefully!

A walk down is possible, but it will take 30 minutes to return to the base. Go North up the hill directly above the route & through the notch. Turn East/right. Make your way down to the Mason Creek Trail staying left, north of the slabs. Apr 9, 2016
The walkoff left should take more like 15 minutes and return one to the base near Underklingon, etc. Aug 21, 2018

More About For the Green Penguin

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