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Early Access
Routes in Shanahan Crag
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Bear Peak, The Hard Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beau! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Better Offer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Birthstone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clean Sweep S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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DK Superstar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Done and Dusted S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Great Expectations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Happy Medium S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Identity Theft T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In Broad Daylight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Leonine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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One Bubb Missed T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Prune Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shanahang TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shoulder Season S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Shoulder Star (Link-up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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South Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southeast Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thieves In the Temple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Vague Jug Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wait For It... S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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When It's Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.96031, -105.28829 |
| FA: | T. Bubb, S. VanWychen, 4/17 |
| Page Views: | 914 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 9, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route is an easy one that may have been done before, but was not cleaned or documented. Just left of 'Thieves In the Temple' on the West-facing aspect of the big dihedral, there is a system of cracks running up the face from bottom to top. Most of the climbing is quite easy but for a move at the top which is not quite as easy, but it is still only 5.6 or so.
Start up the narrow wall on the obvious jugs and cracks, reaching a protectable crack after a bodylength or two of climbing. Follow this to where the wall broadens. 'Thieves' goes right to the aArete here, where as 'Daylight' goes left a meter to second crack system.
Follow that crack past an inset to a few trees (easy to pass with no real drag, and sling-able, at that), and move back right a meter to a 3rd system of cracks which goes to the top.
The last 2 meters of climbing has a thinner crux that is protectable. Finish on this and work left and over into the belay slot just as for 'Thieves.'
Location
First find the huge, left-facing dihedral about 1/2 way up the crag from the Eastern toe of it. The large arete formed at its edge is 'Thieves in the Temple'. Inside the dihedral, left of the arete, and right of the corner system is 'Broad Daylight' where the line sat for 50 years without a comment and perhaps without an ascent.
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