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Routes in Shanahan Crag

Beau! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Better Offer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Great Expectations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Identity Theft T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Broad Daylight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leonine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prune Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southeast Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thieves In the Temple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vague Jug Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When It's Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Julie Garrison, Dougald MacDonald
Page Views: 297 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

With some traffic this will become a much better route, but for now it's a bit .... adventurous. This route climbs the pretty huecoed face just left of Identity Theft (the line marked in Rossiter's guide as the "South Face"). Both pitches are 5.8/5.9.

P1. Start in an obvious left-facing corner and climb easily to the roof, then do cool moves left under the roof and stand up at the far end. Angle left across huecos and neat underclings (Tri-Cams useful for pro), then up to easier ground on a faint prow. From here, either keep going a few feet left into a nice left-facing corner (easier and better protected), or tackle the steep wall above via faint double cracks (good climbing but the cracks are discontinuous, a bit dirty and difficult to protect). Belay at a small ledge by a large old nest.

Pitch 2: Angle right over an easy bulge to a stance, then climb steep rock via discontinuous double cracks to reach the top. Adequate but not great pro. (As with the first pitch, the pro will improve if the cracks get more traffic.)

Descent: Downclimb about 75 feet of low 5th class to a ledge with a rap anchor (125-foot rappel), or climb to the summit.

Protection

Standard rack plus Tri-Cams.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
This climb is a bit scruffy and does wander a bit. I felt it was more like 5.9, but I suppose that may be dependent upon your exact path and what holds you are willing to chance using well above gear. Apr 9, 2017