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Routes in Shanahan Crag

Beau! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Better Offer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Great Expectations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Identity Theft T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Broad Daylight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leonine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prune Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southeast Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thieves In the Temple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vague Jug Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When It's Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: T. Bubb, S. VanWychen, 4/17
Page Views: 84 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 9, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is an easy one that may have been done before, but was not cleaned or documented. Just left of 'Thieves In the Temple' on the West-facing aspect of the big dihedral, there is a system of cracks running up the face from bottom to top. Most of the climbing is quite easy but for a move at the top which is not quite as easy, but it is still only 5.6 or so.

Start up the narrow wall on the obvious jugs and cracks, reaching a protectable crack after a bodylength or two of climbing. Follow this to where the wall broadens. 'Thieves' goes right to the aArete here, where as 'Daylight' goes left a meter to second crack system.

Follow that crack past an inset to a few trees (easy to pass with no real drag, and sling-able, at that), and move back right a meter to a 3rd system of cracks which goes to the top.

The last 2 meters of climbing has a thinner crux that is protectable. Finish on this and work left and over into the belay slot just as for 'Thieves.'

Location

First find the huge, left-facing dihedral about 1/2 way up the crag from the Eastern toe of it. The large arete formed at its edge is 'Thieves in the Temple'. Inside the dihedral, left of the arete, and right of the corner system is 'Broad Daylight' where the line sat for 50 years without a comment and perhaps without an ascent.

Protection

A standrad light rack with a set of cams and a set of nuts.

Photos

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