Avg: 1.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|Page Views:||422 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Dougald MacDonald on Mar 7, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This is the line shown in Rossiter's guidebooks as the "South Face." Consensus seems to be that the "real" South Face is the excellent double-crack system about 50 feet to the right. But this is a decent route in its own right, with both 5.4 and 5.7 options. Start just right of an obvious left-facing corner with a roof, and climb easily up face holds and cracks for about 100 feet. At a good ledge, you can traverse right to reach an anchor. (If you do this, the route is very well protected and about 5.4.) Or, continue straight up on interesting crack climbing and fin holds (about 5.7+). The straight-up line is adequately protected, but the gear is a bit tough to get -- don't send a 5.7 leader at his limit up it. From the top, either downclimb 4th class rock for about 50 feet to reach a rap anchor (125 foot rappel), or carry on to the summit.