Thieves In the Temple
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Tony Bubb, Stef VanWychen, 4/17 |
Page Views: | 756 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 9, 2017 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a one-star route that might be a 2-star route if cleaned up.
Start up on easy (5.4-ish) climbing at the edge of the right side of the dihedral, to access the arete. Continue up a seam and past a horizontal break to a good incut block/flake directly on the arete about 40' up or so. Place a few cams here (red Aliens or purple Camalots) as this is crux protection and is the only thing stopping a potential groundfall. Work up past this using a diagonally left-rising rail on the left and a series of small edges and slopers for feet on the right to get through the thin crux up to a jug (and more protection) on the next ledge.
From there, ride the moderate arete at no harder than 5.5 to the top with occasional gear.
At the top of the arete, traverse back in to a 5" diameter tree and a medium cam for a belay at the main wall. Belay there before scrambling down 20 feet to the SE to the rap station on the large (sappy) pine as for South Face. A 60m rope makes it, and I think a 50m might as well. Watch out for pine tar!
Start up on easy (5.4-ish) climbing at the edge of the right side of the dihedral, to access the arete. Continue up a seam and past a horizontal break to a good incut block/flake directly on the arete about 40' up or so. Place a few cams here (red Aliens or purple Camalots) as this is crux protection and is the only thing stopping a potential groundfall. Work up past this using a diagonally left-rising rail on the left and a series of small edges and slopers for feet on the right to get through the thin crux up to a jug (and more protection) on the next ledge.
From there, ride the moderate arete at no harder than 5.5 to the top with occasional gear.
At the top of the arete, traverse back in to a 5" diameter tree and a medium cam for a belay at the main wall. Belay there before scrambling down 20 feet to the SE to the rap station on the large (sappy) pine as for South Face. A 60m rope makes it, and I think a 50m might as well. Watch out for pine tar!
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