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Routes in Shanahan Crag

Beau! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Better Offer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Great Expectations T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Identity Theft T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Broad Daylight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leonine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prune Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Southeast Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thieves In the Temple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vague Jug Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When It's Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Stef VanWychen, 4/17
Page Views: 100 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 9, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a one-star route that might be a 2-star route if cleaned up.

Start up on easy (5.4-ish) climbing at the edge of the right side of the dihedral, to access the arete. Continue up a seam and past a horizontal break to a good incut block/flake directly on the arete about 40' up or so. Place a few cams here (red Aliens or purple Camalots) as this is crux protection and is the only thing stopping a potential groundfall. Work up past this using a diagonally left-rising rail on the left and a series of small edges and slopers for feet on the right to get through the thin crux up to a jug (and more protection) on the next ledge.

From there, ride the moderate arete at no harder than 5.5 to the top with occasional gear.

At the top of the arete, traverse back in to a 5" diameter tree and a medium cam for a belay at the main wall. Belay there before scrambling down 20 feet to the SE to the rap station on the large (sappy) pine as for South Face. A 60m rope makes it, and I think a 50m might as well. Watch out for pine tar!

Location

A large left-facing dihedral separates the lower and upper halves of the Southern face of the Shanahan Crag. The prominent arete formed by this can be climbed to the left without too much difficulty, though it is a little scruffy and could use a brushing.

Protection

A standard light rack to 3" with 2' slings.

Double down on purple Camalots or red Aliens in the only good placement before the slightly insecure crux. A green Camalot might also go just around the corner in that slot.

Photos

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