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Lightly Toasted
The name of this route has been flagged as potentially discriminatory. More Info
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 35
votes
Routes in (2) Llama Wall
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100% Beef S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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American Nirvana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blackened S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cloud Nine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Condor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Entering Relativity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of the Beholder S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Eye of the Beholder Finish S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harvester of Sorrow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Junkshow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lightly Toasted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Livin Large S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Llama Enlightenment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Llama Sutra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Metal Smith S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Olive S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Street Candy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Struggle Within (Start), The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wannabe Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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When Llamas Need Protection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 916 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Priti Wright on Aug 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Smith Rock Group NE Face both towers CLOSED above 100 feet
Details
Smith Rock Group, Northeast Face both towers are closed to climbing until July 15 , for Peregrine Falcons nesting in the area. Closure includes the routes Freedom's..., The Good 'Ol Days, European Vacation, Snibble Tower. The closure also includes the King Line highline. Single routes below 100 feet remain OPEN at this time. See smithrock.com for further details.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
If you stay to the right of Blackened, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes.
Nervous climbers often refuse to leave the security of the crack, clipping bolts to the left on Blackened while bypassing the hardest moves.
Nervous climbers often refuse to leave the security of the crack, clipping bolts to the left on Blackened while bypassing the hardest moves.
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