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Routes in (2) Llama Wall

100% Beef S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
American Nirvana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blackened S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cloud Nine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Condor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Entering Relativity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harvester of Sorrow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Junkshow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lightly Toasted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Livin Large S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Llama Enlightenment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Llama Sutra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Metal Smith S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olive S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Struggle Within (Start), The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wannabe Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Llamas Need Protection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: ...give me a day, gotta check the book...
Page Views: 665 total · 5/month
Shared By: rpc on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a decent (gets 2 out of 4 stars in Watts' guidebook) traditional route in a sea of new bolted lines. As such, I don't think it sees much traffic. Though there is some loose rock on it, the hard climbing is all done on solid stone and with good pro.

Climb the right hand of two cracks (sharp finger locks & likely the crux of route) to roof with a nice hand crack through it. Pull the roof and move up onto a ledge system (1 old bolt). Scramble 10 feet up and follow the left side squeeze chimney (watch the teetering 300-lb block at base of chimney) formed by a huge inverted spire of rock (fixed nut deep inside). Belay from 2 bolts.

Location

Just left of the new bolted line called Blackened - see that route page for a nice overview photo.

The route is located about 100 feet right of where the East Wall (5.8X) starts or just around the corner to the right of the wide crack (high up) that is pitch 2 of East Wall. Look for two cracks 4 feet apart going to a roof 25 feet up in bright tan-colored rock. If you don't know where the classic ;) East Wall starts, it's well right of Phoenix Buttress.

Protection

Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #3 Camalot. Light set of nuts esp. a mid-sized piece. Despite its appearance, doesn't need anything over #3 Camalot.

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