Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: ...give me a day, gotta check the book...
Page Views: 685 total · 5/month
Shared By: rpc on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is a decent (gets 2 out of 4 stars in Watts' guidebook) traditional route in a sea of new bolted lines. As such, I don't think it sees much traffic. Though there is some loose rock on it, the hard climbing is all done on solid stone and with good pro.

Climb the right hand of two cracks (sharp finger locks & likely the crux of route) to roof with a nice hand crack through it. Pull the roof and move up onto a ledge system (1 old bolt). Scramble 10 feet up and follow the left side squeeze chimney (watch the teetering 300-lb block at base of chimney) formed by a huge inverted spire of rock (fixed nut deep inside). Belay from 2 bolts.

Location

Just left of the new bolted line called Blackened - see that route page for a nice overview photo.

The route is located about 100 feet right of where the East Wall (5.8X) starts or just around the corner to the right of the wide crack (high up) that is pitch 2 of East Wall. Look for two cracks 4 feet apart going to a roof 25 feet up in bright tan-colored rock. If you don't know where the classic ;) East Wall starts, it's well right of Phoenix Buttress.

Protection

Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #3 Camalot. Light set of nuts esp. a mid-sized piece. Despite its appearance, doesn't need anything over #3 Camalot.

Photos

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