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Routes in (2) Llama Wall

100% Beef S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
American Nirvana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blackened S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cloud Nine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Condor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Entering Relativity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harvester of Sorrow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Junkshow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lightly Toasted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Livin Large S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Llama Enlightenment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Llama Sutra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Metal Smith S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olive S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Struggle Within (Start), The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wannabe Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Llamas Need Protection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,251 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 14, 2012
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Another great shady sport route on the Llama wall. Climbs like a stiffer version of Entering Relativity, expect similar well featured footholds and mostly great holds. After a solo to the first bolt climb moderate and positive climbing heading towards a large pocket. Here the crux of a finger lock, gastons, and positive crimps stays on ya till you reach positive jugs. After the final crack sequence, which starts off as a left facing lieback into a right facing lieback. You could place an optional piece here but if your used to Smith bolting you won't have trouble here. On a rock quality and asthetics standpoint, I don't think it warrants the 4 star rating in the book (especially compared to Blackened) but American Nirvana offers great climbing

Location

Two routes to the right of Blackened. The route starts soloing up a small juggy vert section to a ledge to the first bolt.

Protection

Bolts and an optional finger size piece for the finish

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.11c
Franck Vee  
  5.11c
You do need a 70m to lower from that - 60m will run you short about at the 1st bolt. You'd have to use a quick link/leave a biner if you climb that with a 60m, and there are no convenient anchors lower down to do a proper rappel & clean your route.

I agree it's a stiffer version of Entering Relativety in many ways, though there are a few places that are a bit more cruxy, it's not as even difficulty-wise. Pumpier but then you can fashion some partial rests along the way. Jul 15, 2017
Mateo San Pedro   OR
 
FA: Ryan Lawson Jan 3, 2016
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
This is a perfect example of a route with totally crap aesthetics but extremely fun movement. I would have never thought a climb like that was hiding on that kind of junky looking wall. I agree that the final optional gear is not necessary but it made me feel a lot better placing it because I probably would have fallen 30 feet (clean) otherwise had I not placed it and screwed up the final moves. Oct 15, 2014
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
This route is actually the 2nd bolt line to the RIGHT of blackened. Deceivingly steep and pumpy. Hard to read crux on an onsite, but amazing incut pockets to suss out the sequence from! I def set up camp while looking for my sequence. May 27, 2014