Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: David and Dee Tvedt
Page Views: 3,811 total · 43/month
Shared By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

140 Opinions

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A ridiculously well bolted pitch with generally great holds and fun movement. You start down low in a short but hard dihedral with three bolts in the first 12 or so feet of climbing.

After that, romp up the rest of this extremely long route on great holds with good feet, carefully managing your body position to avoid getting pumped. Don't let your guard down though, there are one or two moves on this that are a little awkward despite the generally high quality climbing.

There are a lot of bolts on this one, so you wind up being able to backclean two or three draws pretty easily. There is one bolt near the top when you hit the big layback flake that is pretty far off route to the right. The falls are safe and the climbing secure so I skipped it. You're risking a fairly big whip but it seems less scary than traversing to the bolt.

Good first 11a for a gym climber well versed in big holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Not terribly technically difficult, mostly a fitness check, and definitely onsightable.


several routes to the right of Blackened. Look for the short little dihedral with two bolts within a few feet of each other.


14 bolts but you can backclean two or three pretty easily and you'll probably want to skip one in particular if you can handle it.


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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great route. Long, pumpy, and fun! Sep 18, 2011
Pretty fun route! The whole thing suffers from a general sheen of near-chossiness, but everything held together and the moves were really fun. Nice long overhanging jughaul. Jun 28, 2012
This route has 15 bolts not 14 as stated above and in Watts' book. Backcleaning is possible at various spots and helps with the rope drag. Using slings on a few of the outlying bolts will help with the drag too. A 60m rope will just get you down.

It isn't a very aesthetic line but the climbing is quite fun.

Chad Feb 18, 2013
Way overbolted, with some weird bolt placements as well. Oct 21, 2013
Bend, Or.
BSwett   Bend, Or.
Fun moves, long and pumpy. But some of those holds and flakes flex quite a bit. Something is eventually gonna come loose and it won't be good, for climber or belayer.... May 30, 2014
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
Moves up to the 3rd bolt are probably the hardest technically, then it's a long satisfying jug haul to the anchors. Though not hard to clip, nor far from the deck, stick clipping the 3rd bolt wouldn't be a bad idea. I second the comments that the jugs felt a little on the chossy side. Sep 17, 2014
Bend, Oregon
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
3 star climbing on 1 star rock Jun 21, 2015
Ben Murphy-Baum
Ben Murphy-Baum  
Pretty fun route. I recall it having long moves to massive jugs pretty much the whole way. Felt more like 5.10+ Oct 4, 2015
Portland, OR
tsherry   Portland, OR
Fun moves on sharp rock. Mar 20, 2016
Laura Bauer  
Really cool starting moves, and I liked the traverse and flake feature near the top, but the terrible rock quality in the lower/middle parts of the route made me really question why I got on this thing. It's all easy 10 climbing after the start so if you're trying to push into 11's go for it. The bolting is a bit weird. I skipped the very first one, and used 17 draws I believe. I had none left for the anchors though and there are only rings up there so just bring a lot of draws or back clean as someone else suggested. Mar 17, 2017
Franck Vee
Franck Vee  
Great, even climb. The flake at the top is sweet, not particularly hard but just a nice finish to an awesome climb. Great onsight/redpoint candidate if trying to break into those grades. Jul 15, 2017
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
First turtlehead onsight ascent. Turtlehead verification performed by independent third party bystander immediately following ascent. Jul 15, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
As a small 5'3" climber with small fingers, the part they say is the crux (first 3 bolts) I thought was not hard, but it's definitely different than the rest of the route. A small section on the left side of the dihedral is slick so that may cause a little grief. Stick clip recommended because of the huge boulder behind you. This is definitely an endurance route although there are so many amazing rest spots that you just want to hang out in them forever. Lots of flakes & rails, and power moves that were 5.10. Slightly scary traverse out right in the middle to clip a bolt, but it's more heady than physical at that spot. Get ecstatic about the stellar no hands rest where you can wedge yourself completely in a flake. Well protected route, I agree it's over-bolted. Great place to climb when it's super hot out. Apr 4, 2018
Huuuge chunk came trundling off this May 2, 2018. Around the first ledge/4th bolt, I onsighted and avoided it (really enjoyed it! fun moves, good holds, nice and long), then my partner went up and ripped it off accidentally. I managed to sidestep it mostly, it caught me in the shoulder, unfortunately ending my trip but just scrapes and brusies luckily. It hit me then broke on the big boulder behind me. There may still be loose rock surrounding, I hiked out to get home but they were going to try to clean up. No idea how it changes the grade.

My size 11 foot for scale... Wear your helmets and avoid the X's people!!! imgur.com/a/EW09R0G May 3, 2018
Dylan Shuler  
As some of the other commenters mentioned, there are a few bad bolt placements. Bolt 7 is so far right it seems impossible to clip, so I just went ahead and skipped it as the moves to the next bolt were quite simple Oct 16, 2018