Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: David and Dee Tvedt
Page Views: 4,969 total · 46/month
Shared By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


183 Opinions

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Access Issue: Smith Rock Group NE Face both towers CLOSED above 100 feet Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

A ridiculously well bolted pitch with generally great holds and fun movement. You start down low in a short but hard dihedral with three bolts in the first 12 or so feet of climbing.

After that, romp up the rest of this extremely long route on great holds with good feet, carefully managing your body position to avoid getting pumped. Don't let your guard down though, there are one or two moves on this that are a little awkward despite the generally high quality climbing.

There are a lot of bolts on this one, so you wind up being able to backclean two or three draws pretty easily. There is one bolt near the top when you hit the big layback flake that is pretty far off route to the right. The falls are safe and the climbing secure so I skipped it. You're risking a fairly big whip but it seems less scary than traversing to the bolt.

Good first 11a for a gym climber well versed in big holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Not terribly technically difficult, mostly a fitness check, and definitely onsightable.

Location

several routes to the right of Blackened. Look for the short little dihedral with two bolts within a few feet of each other.

Protection

14 bolts but you can backclean two or three pretty easily and you'll probably want to skip one in particular if you can handle it.

Photos