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Routes in (2) Llama Wall

100% Beef S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
American Nirvana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blackened S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cloud Nine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Condor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Entering Relativity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harvester of Sorrow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Junkshow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lightly Toasted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Livin Large S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Llama Enlightenment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Llama Sutra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Metal Smith S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olive S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Struggle Within (Start), The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wannabe Llamas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Llamas Need Protection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: David and Dee Tvedt
Page Views: 3,020 total, 40/month
Shared By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A ridiculously well bolted pitch with generally great holds and fun movement. You start down low in a short but hard dihedral with three bolts in the first 12 or so feet of climbing.

After that, romp up the rest of this extremely long route on great holds with good feet, carefully managing your body position to avoid getting pumped. Don't let your guard down though, there are one or two moves on this that are a little awkward despite the generally high quality climbing.

There are a lot of bolts on this one, so you wind up being able to backclean two or three draws pretty easily. There is one bolt near the top when you hit the big layback flake that is pretty far off route to the right. The falls are safe and the climbing secure so I skipped it. You're risking a fairly big whip but it seems less scary than traversing to the bolt.

Good first 11a for a gym climber well versed in big holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Not terribly technically difficult, mostly a fitness check, and definitely onsightable.

Location

several routes to the right of Blackened. Look for the short little dihedral with two bolts within a few feet of each other.

Protection

14 bolts but you can backclean two or three pretty easily and you'll probably want to skip one in particular if you can handle it.

Photos

Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
First turtlehead onsight ascent. Turtlehead verification performed by independent third party bystander immediately following ascent. Jul 15, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.11a
Franck Vee  
  5.11a
Great, even climb. The flake at the top is sweet, not particularly hard but just a nice finish to an awesome climb. Great onsight/redpoint candidate if trying to break into those grades. Jul 15, 2017
Laura Bauer  
 
Really cool starting moves, and I liked the traverse and flake feature near the top, but the terrible rock quality in the lower/middle parts of the route made me really question why I got on this thing. It's all easy 10 climbing after the start so if you're trying to push into 11's go for it. The bolting is a bit weird. I skipped the very first one, and used 17 draws I believe. I had none left for the anchors though and there are only rings up there so just bring a lot of draws or back clean as someone else suggested. Mar 17, 2017
tsherry
Portland, OR
 
tsherry   Portland, OR
 
Fun moves on sharp rock. Mar 20, 2016
bmb
  5.10d
bmb  
  5.10d
Pretty fun route. I recall it having long moves to massive jugs pretty much the whole way. Felt more like 5.10+ Oct 4, 2015
hotlum
Bend, Oregon
 
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
 
3 star climbing on 1 star rock Jun 21, 2015
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.10
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.10
Moves up to the 3rd bolt are probably the hardest technically, then it's a long satisfying jug haul to the anchors. Though not hard to clip, nor far from the deck, stick clipping the 3rd bolt wouldn't be a bad idea. I second the comments that the jugs felt a little on the chossy side. Sep 17, 2014
BSwett
Bend, Or.
 
BSwett   Bend, Or.
 
Fun moves, long and pumpy. But some of those holds and flakes flex quite a bit. Something is eventually gonna come loose and it won't be good, for climber or belayer.... May 30, 2014
pdxuller
  5.10d
pdxuller  
  5.10d
Way overbolted, with some weird bolt placements as well. Oct 21, 2013
This route has 15 bolts not 14 as stated above and in Watts' book. Backcleaning is possible at various spots and helps with the rope drag. Using slings on a few of the outlying bolts will help with the drag too. A 60m rope will just get you down.

It isn't a very aesthetic line but the climbing is quite fun.

Chad Feb 18, 2013
Pretty fun route! The whole thing suffers from a general sheen of near-chossiness, but everything held together and the moves were really fun. Nice long overhanging jughaul. Jun 28, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Great route. Long, pumpy, and fun! Sep 18, 2011