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Routes in Uptown

5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bolt Ladder Boulder C0
Bonobo V5 6C
Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Deception T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Static V5+ 6C+ R
Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orangutan V2+ 5+
PMC T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Deception Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slab Problem V4- 6B
Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
TT's Terror T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel NE V3 6A
Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zit Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: CJ Dunn late 80's
Page Views: 72 total, 4/month
Shared By: CJD on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

I'm adding this route because some people have asked me about it in the past. It is a short little thing and was quite scary to lead on the FA. My guess is that it is 5.11. It is a pretty little face but too tall for a highball so I lead it.

Location

This route is on the far N end of Uptown on a small S. facing face. It can be recognized by a left slanting seem on the flat face. There is a drilled baby angle on the bulge near the top. (or there was 30 years ago when I did the FA)

Protection

Pro is tiny wires in the seam and when I did the FA I used a knife blade piton in the middle of the seam. The drilled pro near the top turned out to be unnecessary since the move above was only about 5.7 but I put this up ground up and didn't know what was coming. That's why I called it Chicken Fixin's.

Photos

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Dos this happen to be the face above the hand crack cave? I've always thought it would be pretty proud to climb out the hand crack, pull the lip and then transition to the face. Never gotten around to it but I've seen the pin up high and always wondered!? Dec 13, 2016